Hi Josh,
Thanks for the tip. I hope it's as simple as a
dufus move with sensor and IGN connections.
Fortunately I made a colour coded wiring diagram
when I changed from the Catalina panel to Sweet's panel.
I'll track that down this weekend, along with the
tach wiring. It's a sensor lead type unit fed
from alternator stator that worked for the garage
setup, temporary measures of course, but decided
not to work in a real life situation.
The rest of the engine install has been
successful. Oh joy. I can get to the Dinghy Dock
Pub this weekend, with guests from out of town.
Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
At 05:16 AM 13/03/2017, you wrote:
You can put a simple variable resistor in series
with the temperature probe. Or you could put a
simple voltage regulator circuit on the 12v
supply. You could church it up by making the voltage regulator adjustable.
There might be something wrong with the gage or
a ground path since most temperature sensing
systems are designed to work independent of the
input voltage. A wheatsone bridge is normally used.Â
<https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wheatstone_bridge>https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wheatstone_bridge
A simple mistake in the wiring could be the
cause too. Typically the gages have a 12v
supply, ground, and sense (or D from the picture
in the link). If the 12v and D wires attached
to the gage were swapped I think you would see
the resulting indication which you are
having. I'd take some voltage readings at the
temperature probe and at the gage. While
you're there check the resistances of the ground
wire and the sensing wire. Particularly
important in this case is the meter usage good
practice of checking for no voltage before checking resistance.
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MDÂ
On Mar 13, 2017 12:14 AM, "Russ & Melody via
CnC-List" <<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
Anyone know if Faria temperature gauges have a calibration function on them?
I just finished installing a Universal 25 HP
(that came out of a Catalina 30). The previous
owner complained of overheat issues.
Anyhow, running at the dock, in gear for load,
the engine comes up to 180 F (using a
non-contact thermometer) and shows 220 F on the
gauge. Immediately on shutdown it drops to
190ish, on restart it goes back to 220. I can
say the difference is due to alternator running voltage 14.7 vs. shutdown, 13V.
I cannot find any good information on the web
regarding calibration or the resistance values
that can help, although such items are mentioned.
       Â
        cheers, Russ
        Sweet 35 mk-1
        Vancouver Island
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
