Dave,

I haven't done exactly what you describe but have done similar work.  If it
was me, I'd fill the old holes with thickened epoxy and go with the #12
fasteners.

You didn't say if the new bolt pattern completely or partially overlaid the
A&H hatch.  If it matches, overbore and fill.

In fact, if you overbored and filled regardless you'd probably end up with
a strong bond.  My thinking is that the deck is only 1/4-3/8 inch or so.
So the fastener is only grabbing that much.  If you overbore carefully down
to the top of the headliner and fill with thickened epoxy, you'll have a
plug that is thicker than the original deck.  More material for the
fastener to grab.  Measure the depth of the hole before you fill so you'll
have a good idea of what length fastener to use.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Tue, Sep 26, 2017 at 4:17 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> So I’m crowd-sourcing this question that I have. Always good ideas and
> experiences here.
>
> I purchased a Lewmar Ocean Hatch 60 (shout-out to Fred Street) last year
> and am now getting ready to install it as a replacement for the
> Atkins-Hoyle hatch that I buggered up removing it prior to painting the
> decks. The original hatch used what are I believe (threw away all the
> originals like a dope…) #14 stainless steel sheet metal screws screwed into
> the deck. No through-bolting. Twenty of those and butyl. Worked pretty well
> for 30-plus years
>
> The new Lewmar specifies through-bolting the frame, using #12 machine
> screws and nuts. Let’s just say that I am really reluctant to run bolts
> through my overhead and having to stare at them when lying and looking
> upwards in the v-berth.
>
> So, what have those who have replaced their original hatches done?
>
> Best,
> Dave Godwin
> 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
> Ronin’s Overdue Refit <http://roninrebuild.blogspot.com/>
>
>
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