Hello all, I am thinking about a number of similar attachments where I'd really like a machine screw attachment instead of a wood screw type (which in my opinion tears up fiberglass and/or whatever you're screwing it into). This way one can remove the screw multiple times.
So, I came across the idea of a threaded insert like this: https://www.amazon.com/Z-Threaded-400-3-CR-Stainless-Internal/dp/B002WC8TS4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1506518994&sr=8-3&keywords=stainless+steel+threaded+inserts If one overdrilled the hole, filled it with thickened epoxy, and put in a threaded insert, wouldn't that do double duty as far as preventing future core damage while allowing hatches & such to be removed at will for rebedding in the future? Curious as to how this approach would be lacking, Bruce Whitmore (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net From: Dennis C. via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> To: CnClist <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Cc: Dennis C. <capt...@gmail.com> Sent: Tuesday, September 26, 2017 5:50 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List Hatch replacement experiences. Dave, I haven't done exactly what you describe but have done similar work. If it was me, I'd fill the old holes with thickened epoxy and go with the #12 fasteners. You didn't say if the new bolt pattern completely or partially overlaid the A&H hatch. If it matches, overbore and fill. In fact, if you overbored and filled regardless you'd probably end up with a strong bond. My thinking is that the deck is only 1/4-3/8 inch or so. So the fastener is only grabbing that much. If you overbore carefully down to the top of the headliner and fill with thickened epoxy, you'll have a plug that is thicker than the original deck. More material for the fastener to grab. Measure the depth of the hole before you fill so you'll have a good idea of what length fastener to use. Dennis C.Touche' 35-1 #83Mandeville, LA On Tue, Sep 26, 2017 at 4:17 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: So I’m crowd-sourcing this question that I have. Always good ideas and experiences here. I purchased a Lewmar Ocean Hatch 60 (shout-out to Fred Street) last year and am now getting ready to install it as a replacement for the Atkins-Hoyle hatch that I buggered up removing it prior to painting the decks. The original hatch used what are I believe (threw away all the originals like a dope…) #14 stainless steel sheet metal screws screwed into the deck. No through-bolting. Twenty of those and butyl. Worked pretty well for 30-plus years The new Lewmar specifies through-bolting the frame, using #12 machine screws and nuts. Let’s just say that I am really reluctant to run bolts through my overhead and having to stare at them when lying and looking upwards in the v-berth. So, what have those who have replaced their original hatches done? Best,Dave Godwin 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin Reedville - Chesapeake BayRonin’s Overdue Refit ______________________________ _________________ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/ stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated! _______________________________________________ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
_______________________________________________ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
