I know of one lightning strike that happened when a boat was on the hard at the 
same boatyard. The boat was a Bristol 54 I think, very well built and heavily 
bonded and protected for a lightning strike. It had that little lightning 
dissapator on the top of the mast. All of his electronics were fried, a piece 
of toerail with metal rub strip was blown out, one thru hull was close to the 
ground and showed damage from a lightning exit and was laying on the ground 
afterward. It delayed his planned cruise a month but he made out well, 
insurance got him all new electrics and he had the mast pulled and all rod 
reheaded while the repairs were done by the yard. My 34R was thirty feet away 
but the lightning hit his mast and instead of mine cause his was higher and I 
am convinced his boat was also a stronger target because he kept his power cord 
connected, grounding everything to earth ground.

I never leave a power cord connected to my boat when away from my boat for 
several reasons, this being one of them. I charge my batteries when I'm there 
and unplug before leaving. I do use a heatpump AC unit but don't have 
refrigeration so it's worked for me so far.


> On May 4, 2018 at 4:56 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
> wrote:
> 
>     ABYC makes no specific prescriptions regarding lighting.  As such there 
> is no one "right" way.  One train of thought is to bring the top of the mast 
> to the same potential and the water, effectively drawing lightning to the 
> boat.  Under this methodology you are really proving protection to the 
> occupants.  In order to fully protect you need to ground the shrouds and life 
> line stanchions to so that side stikes don't impact the occupants.  
> Unfortunately this may actually be making the boat more likely to get hit and 
> in our cases blow holes in the hull and sink the boat.  All of this is the 
> same way lightning rods are supposed to work.  The real problem with this 
> methodology is that 1 million volts is difficult to deal with.  The gauge of 
> wire, the bend radius, corrosion, resistance of lead/epoxy/bottom paint, all 
> dictate the path which the lightning chooses to travel and of course remember 
> that it has already traveled multiple miles through a near perfect insulator.
> 
>     The other methodology is to insulate the mast from the water so that it 
> is no more likely to be struck.  This leaves the occupants unprotected but 
> ensures that no holes are created.  It may also make a strike less likely.
> 
>     As for the stock lightning protection on the 37/40, 37+.  It is/was 
> deplorable.  A 6 gauge wire is bolted to the step (not the mast) and then 
> attched to the forward most keel bolt.  The attachment is in the form of a 
> 1/4-20 bolt welded at the head to one of the washers under the keel bolt nut. 
>  The ground wire has a terminal crimped on and fitted to the 1/4-20 with a  
> nut.  The original wire was not tinned copper and not protected from water 
> intrusion.  To the best of my knowledge my boat has never been struck.
> 
>     Josh Muckley 
>     S/V Sea Hawk 
>     1989 C&C 37+
>     Solomons, MD 
> 
> 
> 
>     On Fri, May 4, 2018, 11:29 AM Alan Liles via CnC-List 
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> 
>         > >         I'm wondering about grounding for lightning protection 
> with an epoxy coated keel. Isn't that why the mast is connected, electrically 
> to the keel. I've had lightning strike very close, which aroused my interest 
> in avoidance of being hit
> > 
> >         Al Liles
> >         SV Elendil
> >         C&C 37/40+
> >         Vancouver 
> > 
> > 
> >         On May 3, 2018, at 3:02 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
> > <cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> > 
> > 
> >             > > >             Josh is on track.  I just helped fix a 
> > "smile" on a 35-2.   Sanded to bare lead then quickly applied epoxy with a 
> > 3M scrub pad with vigorous rubbing.  Minimizes the oxidation and promotes a 
> > good bond.  Once you get the epoxy on the lead then you can apply barrier 
> > coat, paint, fairing, whatever.
> > > 
> > >             Dennis C.
> > >             Touche' 35-1 #83
> > >             Mandeville, LA
> > > 
> > >             On Thu, May 3, 2018 at 4:35 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
> > > <cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> > > 
> > >                 > > > > I believe West Systems suggests scrubbing epoxy 
> > > into the metal with a wire brush or a scrubby pad.  Anytime an epoxy 
> > > coating is applied (west systems, interprotect, etc) I've been told that 
> > > to ensure proper adhesion between layers you need to apply the next layer 
> > > while the last coating is still soft or tacky.  This includes the first 
> > > coat of bottom paint.
> > > > 
> > > >                 Josh Muckley 
> > > >                 S/V Sea Hawk 
> > > >                 1989 C&C 37+
> > > >                 Solomons, MD 
> > > > 
> > > > 
> > > > 
> > > >                 On Thu, May 3, 2018, 5:11 PM bushmark4--- via CnC-List 
> > > > <cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> > > > 
> > > >                     > > > > > To the group; I have removed all of the 
> > > > old bottom paint and some old faring compound from my keel and it is 
> > > > now down to bare lead; what should I use for a sealant/primer on the 
> > > > bare metal, before putting on a barrier coat, and what is the best 
> > > > method for application?  I have also taken the hull to gelcoat and plan 
> > > > to put on a barrier coat and new bottom paint...any other ideas...? 
> > > > Many thanks...
> > > > > 
> > > > > 
> > > > >                     Richard
> > > > >                     s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C&C 37 CB; on the hard...
> > > > > 
> > > > >                     Richard N. Bush Law Offices
> > > > >                     2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> > > > >                     Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
> > > > >                     502-584-7255
> > > > > 
> > > > > 
> > > > >                     -----Original Message-----
> > > > >                     From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
> > > > > <cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com >
> > > > >                     To: C&C List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> > > > > mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com >
> > > > >                     Cc: Josh Muckley <muckl...@gmail.com 
> > > > > mailto:muckl...@gmail.com >
> > > > >                     Sent: Thu, May 3, 2018 1:33 pm
> > > > >                     Subject: Re: Stus-List Yanmar 2gmf
> > > > > 
> > > > >                     Send us a picture.
> > > > > 
> > > > >                     Josh Muckley
> > > > >                     S/V Sea Hawk 
> > > > >                     1989 C&C 37+
> > > > >                     Solomons, MD 
> > > > > 
> > > > >                     On Thu, May 3, 2018, 12:21 PM Bev Parslow via 
> > > > > CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> > > > > 
> > > > >                         > > > > > >                         Seem to 
> > > > > be loosing some fuel. The tank is good. There is no leak from the 
> > > > > tank to the primary filter. It then goes to the engine. No leak 
> > > > > there. Pardon my ignorance but there is a round attachment with a 
> > > > > gasket on the top that seems to be leaking. There are some small  
> > > > > screws? bolts? holding it down. It seems to be oozing from there. Can 
> > > > > I tighten them leaving everything together or do I need to take the 
> > > > > mixing elbow off?
> > > > > >                         Yanmar 2gmf.
> > > > > >                         
> > > > > > _______________________________________________
> > > > > > 
> > > > > >                         Thanks everyone for supporting this list 
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> > > > > > 
> > > > > >                     > > > > >                     
> > > > > > _______________________________________________
> > > > > 
> > > > >                     Thanks everyone for supporting this list with 
> > > > > your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you 
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> > > > >                     _______________________________________________
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> > > > >                     Thanks everyone for supporting this list with 
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> > > > > 
> > > > >                 > > > > 
> > > >                 _______________________________________________
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> > > >                 Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your 
> > > > contributions.  Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want 
> > > > to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution --   
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> > > > 
> > > > 
> > > > 
> > > >             > > > 
> > > 
> > >         > > 
> >             > > >             
> > _______________________________________________
> > > 
> > >             Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your 
> > > contributions.  Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want 
> > > to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution --   
> > > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> > > 
> > > 
> > >         > >         _______________________________________________
> > 
> >         Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  
> > Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list 
> > - use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> > 
> > 
> >     >     _______________________________________________
> 
>     Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each 
> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> 
 
_______________________________________________

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