Dan,

You may know all this but here's my 2 cents.

If you cut the aft skin close to the hull, be sure to create some nice
radius fillets for the tabbing.  Stronger and won't create a stress load
like a perpendicular tab joint.

When I tab bulkheads, I grind/sand to fresh glass (I think you got that)
then coat it with neat epoxy to ensure a good bond.  Then I mix some
thickened epoxy, apply it in the joint and create the radiused fillet with
the backside of a plastic spoon.  Let it cure and lay the tab tape on the
fillet.

Whatever you chose to use for the core, wood or G10, bond it to the forward
skin.  Prep then coat the forward skin with neat epoxy.  Use a notched
trowel to apply thickened epoxy to BOTH the forward skin and the core.  If
you use slow hardener you can replace the aft skin and use the chain plate
bolts to hold it while curing.

I've done several similar jobs, if you have any questions, feel free to ask.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Wed, Jan 30, 2019 at 7:21 AM Daniel Cormier via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Thanks for the feedback guys.
> Ok so now that I know that new tabbing onto bare glass with epoxy is ok as
> long as I grind it first - it will be strong enough. I was planning to go
> with plywood, isolating the bolts and access holes with solid glass so it
> doesn’t get wet again. (I’ll look into FRP. Carbon Fiber would be
> amazing.)Also I was planning to add a 1/2 in. Drain hole at the bottom.
> Once the headstay is removed I’m going to completely disassemble the
> chainplate and inspect it (installed in 2002)- I have to in order to do the
> work. The rusty looking area is just staining- the SS will shine with some
> scrubbing.
>
> Thanks guys!
> I’ll probably record the whole job and post it to my YouTube channel.
>
> Dan
> Breakaweigh
> C&C44
> Halifax, NS
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jan 30, 2019, at 8:21 AM, robert <robertabb...@eastlink.ca> wrote:
>
> Dan:
>
> From looking at your pictures, I would be concerned about the integrity of
> that bulkhead.  I can see five (5) bolts in the chain plate....top 2 look,
> bottom 2 not good, middle one not sure.
>
> I would definitely cut out the rot and re-glass....question is, are you
> going to remove the chain plate?
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32- #277
> Halifax, N.S.
>
> On 2019-01-29 12:48 p.m., Dan via CnC-List wrote:
>
> I need the collective wisdom on this one.
>
> Pictures here:
>  IMG_6750.JPG
> <https://drive.google.com/file/d/1znDiTdnSAfj89gETGSYAzGlTGPaJPGLM/view?usp=drive_web>
>
>  IMG_6747.JPG
> <https://drive.google.com/file/d/1A8ykQQMEgWAVr-Y3Dd5oxvPRXd_tMdMX/view?usp=drive_web>
>
> On Breakaweigh I discovered my forward bulkhead holding the chain plate
> for the headstay was constructed using a plywood core and had been modified
> over the years. Of course no one thought to isolate the core in there when
> drain holes were drilled and such and now the core material inside the
> bulkhead is nearly disintegrated or rotten. There is a front and back
> fiberglass layer, each about 1/4" thick and are well tabbed into the hull.
>
> This rot is making me damn nervous and my gut is telling me to cut into
> the exposed side, remove the rot, clean it up, sand, etc. and re-bed in
> something stronger than wood, then re-glass and re-tab it into the hull.
>
> Before I try anything like that I'm just wondering if cutting then
> re-glassing one side of these original hull tabs is a bad idea? will the
> new tabs be strong enough to support the re-inforced bulkhead? (using good
> quality glass and epoxy)
>
> Thanks guys,
>
> Dan
> Breakaweigh
> C&C44
> Halifax, NS
>
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