Thanks Rob,

I will inspect as you suggest. I have also had a few people suggest that I
may be looking in the wrong area and that the problem may simply be that
the keel bolts are too loose - not loose enough that the keel to sump
bonding has failed but loose enough that the keel is moving against the
sump. I will head to the boat today and check the bolt torque if I can find
a sufficiently deep socket. Will report back to the group as soon as I have
more info.

Regards,
Chris

On Mon, 20 Apr 2020 at 08:41, Robert Abbott <robertabb...@eastlink.ca>
wrote:

> Chris:
>
> Inside, check grid structures and interior pans for cracks, from the pics
> I think I can see some cracks. Probe all grid, pan, floor, step, and
> bulkhead bonds with your flexible blade.
>
> Should your inspection reveal hull damage or weakness, you’ll need to deal
> with this first. Corrective measures depend entirely on the problem, but if
> the damage is serious, you will probably have to remove the keel. In
> addition to grinding away and replacing any fractured or delaminated glass,
> a full repair will also necessitate additional reinforcing members and/or
> additional layers of fiberglass to strengthen the damaged areas.
>
> The mast compression is not as serious but nevertheless needs to be
> addressed as well.....removal of the old and a complete rebuild is
> necessary.
>
> Given what you have described and the pics, I agree with Joe, not a good
> idea to go sailing and possibly have the keel fall off.
>
> The cost of a professional repair would probably be as much as the boat is
> worth....how much personal time and effort you are prepared to put into it,
> only you can determine.
>
> Keep us informed.
>
> Rob Abbott
>
>
>
>
> On 4/19/2020 10:43 PM, Chris Bennett wrote:
>
> Hi Rob,
>
> I do have pictures but do not know how best to post them to this forum so
> I will upload them to my google drive. This is the shareable link:
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=1qEfA4WHGKMVUk6bKch9X4-hXn76AR46C
>
> The issue I believe from examining the bilge area is that my C&C 24 has
> stiffeners (what would be floors in a wooden boat) that help prevent the
> hull from flexing too much when the keel is put in stress (say when beating
> to windward) and that the bonding of some of these stiffeners to the hull
> may have failed. I see signs of this in three of the 'floors'.   The
> surveyor said that the issue is general hull flexing, not any cracking or
> failure of the lead keel to fibreglass joint.
>
>  I named the pictures that you should (hopefully) be able to download from
> the above link as descriptively as I could. I use the term floors to refer
> to the transverse reinforcing areas. The floors at the forward end and aft
> end of the bilge are solid 'boxes'that have no issues. The other 3 floors
> (floors 2 to 4) from forward to aft are as follows (see overview picture
> and detailed pics):
>
> 2) The mast step floor. The plywood appears to have sunken and partly
> delaminated and pulled away from the sides. There is a resin and fibreglass
> strap that runs over the plywood cross piece and outboard at least 8
> inches.  The glass does not seem very thick on this one. See the pictures
> that show a clear curve that has cracked the base of the compression post
> casting. I shimmed this up last year but did not address the real issue.
>
> 3) A U shaped center 'floor' that is basically a big strap of resin and
> glass that runs down into the bilge and up the sides. The keel bolt goes
> through this strap. The pictures show a crack on either side where the
> strap attaches to the bilge base. Not sure how far the strap runs outboard
> but at least 8 inches to where the hull liner cabin sole is bonded to the
> hull. I cannot see how this would do much to stop the hull from flexing
>
> 4) Another plywood crosspiece with resin and glass strap over it. This
> strap appears to no longer be bonded correctly to the hull in the pictures.
>
> I am thinking of reinforcing floors 2 and 4 perhaps adding a cross piece
> and tabbing this better underneath as well as encapsulating in epoxy.
> Perhaps a box made from a top crosspiece with two ends that resemble more
> traditional (deeper) floors would be better if you can picture what I mean?
> I would replace the mast step fitting with a plate and collar made of
> aluminum since the original fitting does not appear to be available anymore
> - the compression post is 2 inches in outer diameter roughly. I was also
> thinking about adding deeper floors fore and aft of the center U shaped
> strap but concerned this might introduce hard spots?
>
> To do any of this I suspect I will have to remove the teak and holly sole
> and cut out with a multi tool or grinder a portion of the fibreglass sole
> so as to gain access to the outboard ends to allow for suitably wide floors
> as well as making access much easier. The problem with this approach is
> that this liner is bonded to the hull and contributes to the overall
> strength so it would need to be replaced carefully so as to restore this
> strength.
>
> A further constraint is to leave access to the keel bolts for tightening
> or replacement and to the bilge for cleaning.
>
> Any suggestions and comments greatly appreciated!
>
> Regards,
> Chris
>
>
> On Sun, 19 Apr 2020 at 17:26, Robert Abbott <robertabb...@eastlink.ca>
> wrote:
>
>> Chris,
>>
>> Trying to understand exactly what you are describing without a
>> picture....are you saying the keel is tight to the keel box but the keel
>> box is cracked from the hull?  If there is no 'smile' and your keel moves
>> 4"  side to side, what else could it be?  If I understand correctly, that's
>> a big problem....you could loose your keel while sailing and that's a big
>> problem.
>>
>> The compression post depressed is another problem and needs to be
>> addressed for continued sailing.
>>
>> Can it be fixed...many things can be fixed but how much time and money
>> are you willing to put into the boat.
>>
>> I'd call the surveyor back and ask him his opinion on the cost of a
>> repair (if he would provide one, he might not, but he just might be an
>> honest guy and tell you what you are in for even if you decide to do the
>> repairs yourself).
>>
>> Rob Abbott
>> AZURA
>> C&C 32 - #277
>> Halifax, N.S.
>>
>>
>> On 4/19/2020 5:39 PM, Chris Bennett via CnC-List wrote:
>>
>> Hi folks,
>>
>> I own Drifter, a C&C 24 from 1985. A recent survey by a potential buyer
>> found that despite the keel being well attached (no 'smile' or obvious
>> issues with the sump to keel joint) the keel moves up to 4 inches from side
>> to side while the boat is hanging in the slings. The surveyor attributed
>> this to failed bonding of the hull liner to the hull. He also noted that
>> the compression post step had subsided and the cast aluminum compression
>> post base was cracked on both sides.
>>
>> I would like to repair the boat and was wondering if anyone else has
>> experienced and addressed these issues?
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> Chris Bennett
>>
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