Rich,

I like the sounds of this upgrade, as I was quite surprised to hear the
lenses are only 1/8" thick. I suspect mine are original except over the nav
table, which is either thinner or a softer material, as it flexes
noticeably more, and there are slight bends in the frame. I don't have
metal interior frames, just flimsy fiberglass ones which have plenty of
cracks. I reinforced one with epoxy from the back, and painted, but the
cracks are coming back. The one over the stove is melted, so may be hard to
rebuild. The gap between deck and liner on my 35 is about 3/8", so will
need a fair amount of epoxy to fill. The fiberglass inner frames hide the
gap (mostly), so the epoxy job doesn't have to be perfect.

I'm assuming I just tear out the old seals from the outside and then pop
the lens out? By the looks of it, the old rubber seals will probably fall
apart quite easily. I didn't realize there was foam tape on the inside; I
guess that explains the bit of stuff creeping out of the crack. Given the
looks of them, I am actually surprised they don't leak more, so I'm also
hesitant to touch them until I am really prepared to do it right.

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C&C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Mon, May 18, 2020 at 7:11 PM Richard Klajnscek via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Years ago I decided that I wanted to keep the original Beclawat portlight
> frames for the larger portlights on my C&C 30 rather than having custom
> long ones made. To me, their proportion looks just right on the boat. I
> didn’t like the 1/8” acrylic however - not very robust for that size of
> port. I did what Shawn suggests - filled the approximate 1/8” gap between
> the headliner and deck with epoxy thickened with structural filler, trying
> to ensure that the overall thickness was consistent around the perimeter -
> some shims may be needed to pry out parts of it to achieve this. I
> eliminated the interior aluminum trim ring - it is not needed with the new
> solid structure. I used 3/16” Lexan for the lenses and eliminated the foam
> tape to make room for the extra thickness of material. It has worked
> flawlessly for many years - far stronger and no leaks. The interior look is
> improved as well.
>
> Rich Klajnscek, P.Eng.
> C&C 30-9 Ginkgo, Gloucester MA
> C&C 39-59 Sea Fox, Hamilton, ON
>
> On May 17, 2020, at 5:56 PM, Shawn Wright via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> How about the 70s vintage aluminum framed portlights? I understand I will
> need new rubber inserts (Catalina direct has been suggested, but not sure
> if there is a source in Canada?), but is Dow 795 also suitable for the
> frame to deck seal?
>
> I'm thinking I will fill the void between the deck and liner with epoxy,
> after stuffing a foam gasket around the joint and inward about 3/4" to
> contain the epoxy, so there is a stiffer surface. From the factory there
> were wooden shims and a few gobs of epoxy or similar, but most of the void
> is wide open.
>
> I know I could upgrade to newer portlights, or maybe try to go frameless,
> but want to keep the look of the original if I can make it work well. I was
> thinking of buffing the frames to a shine, although not sure how long it
> would last...
>
> --
> Shawn Wright
> shawngwri...@gmail.com
> S/V Callisto, 1974 C&C 35
> https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto
>
>
> On Sat, May 16, 2020 at 3:37 PM Peter Cowenhoven via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Tom,
>>
>>
>> Same concept here and this guy is a professional....I think.
>>
>>
>> https://youtu.be/MQyjxVUskd8
>>
>>
>>
>> Landfall 35
>>
>> Westbrook, CT
>>
>>
>> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
>> <https://go.onelink.me/107872968?pid=InProduct&c=Global_Internal_YGrowth_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers&af_wl=ym&af_sub1=Internal&af_sub2=Global_YGrowth&af_sub3=EmailSignature>
>>
>> On Sat, May 16, 2020 at 6:15 PM, Peter Cowenhoven via CnC-List
>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>> _______________________________________________
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>
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