I wanted to come back to this thread. Did some cleaning on land, had my
daughter rotated the Hall effect sensor, the needle moved, thought it was
all good. We later launched the boat and it turned out that the reading was
off still. It read about half of what it was supposed to be.

What would this indicate?

Thanks,

Bo

On Sat, May 23, 2020 at 1:32 PM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Dielectric grease is made specifically for electrical use. Any auto parts
> store has it for about $5.
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
> On 5/23/2020 12:54 PM, General Gao via CnC-List wrote:
>
> that is what I am thinking. Would vaseline work?
>
> Thank you,
>
> Bo
>
> On Mon, May 18, 2020 at 3:49 PM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Put some dielectric grease on the connections ;)
>>
>>
>>
>> *Joe Della Barba Coquina C&C 35  MK I*
>>
>> *www.dellabarba.com <http://www.dellabarba.com>*
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
>> *General
>> Gao via CnC-List
>> *Sent:* Monday, May 18, 2020 3:41 PM
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Cc:* General Gao <general.z....@gmail.com>
>> *Subject:* [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List speedometer - C&C 35 Mk2
>>
>>
>>
>> Reporting back. followed the guide and verified the transmitter had
>> resistance of 1787ohms, verified there was VAC output when the paddle was
>> turning fast (couldn't get to the 5knots as boat is on land). Decided to
>> sand the connectors, and put it back, tested again, and it worked...the
>> connectors looked without rust, a bit surprised.
>>
>>
>>
>> Thank you everyone for the kind help!
>>
>>
>>
>> Stay safe, stay healthy.
>>
>>
>>
>> Regards,
>>
>>
>>
>> Bo
>>
>>
>>
>> On Mon, May 18, 2020 at 11:42 AM General Gao <general.z....@gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>> thank you everyone. I really appreciate the information. I will go check
>> and report back.
>>
>>
>>
>> Stay safe!
>>
>>
>>
>> Bo
>>
>>
>>
>> On Mon, May 18, 2020 at 8:32 AM Ken Heaton via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> Yup, that's correct. If there are only two wires coming from
>> the paddlewheel transducer, it is likely this 'generator' type as a more
>> modern hall effect transducer will have at least three wires (I think).
>>
>>
>>
>> Of course a broke wire or bad connection anywhere between the transducer
>> and the instrument will cause it all to not work.  We would just pull the
>> transducer and connect it directly to the back of the instrument to see
>> what happens.
>>
>>
>>
>> From the Troubleshooting section (last page) of the pdf I linked:
>>
>>
>>
>> TROUBLESHOOTING
>>
>>
>>
>> DISPLAY READS ZERO- The problem could be either the transmitter or the
>> display. Please follow the proceeding steps to determine cause of the
>> problem-
>>
>>
>>
>> A. Measure the two wires of the transmitter with an ohm meter for
>> resistance value of approximately 2000 ohms (2K ohms). Do not spin the
>> paddlewheel.
>>
>> a. If unit is good, then check paddlewheel for any broken fins or missing
>> magnets.
>>
>> b. If unit is open (infinite resistance) then unit needs replacing.
>>
>> B. Measure with an AC voltmeter when the paddlewheel is spinning. You
>> should get approximately 1.0 VAC at about 5 knots of speed when unloaded
>> (not hooked up to display).
>>
>> INTERMITTENT READINGS- Keep the unit wired as normal and add an AC
>> voltmeter to where the input wires of the transmitter are connected. Motor
>> or sail as usual-
>>
>>
>>
>> A. If an AC voltage is being produced but no speed indication appears on
>> display, then the problem is in the display.
>>
>> B. If readings only occur when voltages are produced, then the
>> paddlewheel is not always turning. Clean paddlewheel first and be sure it
>> spins freely, and then try again. If the results are the same then
>> paddlewheel may need replacing.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Mon, 18 May 2020 at 09:18, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> So if I understand it correctly, the theory of operation for these
>> generator style knot meters would simply be a 2 wire system and a voltage
>> developed between the two?  I would expect that a simple initial test would
>> be for continuity between the two wires with the wheel stopped.  Then spin
>> the wheel and check for voltage proportional to the speed of the wheel.
>>
>>
>>
>> Josh Muckley
>>
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>>
>> 1989 C&C 37+
>>
>> Solomons, MD
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Mon, May 18, 2020, 07:38 Joe Della Barba via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> There are (were) some generator knotmeters. Coquina came with one when
>> we bought her. If memory serves, it topped out at 10 or 12 knots and it
>> was always fun to peg it :)
>>
>> Joe
>>
>> Coquina
>>
>> On 5/18/2020 5:32 AM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List wrote:
>> > Have you looked at this web page?  This takes yo to the manuals for SR
>> > Mariner Instruments (since 1973):
>> > https://srinstruments.com/manuals#mariner_manuals
>> <https://protect2.fireeye.com/v1/url?k=8594dd2f-d8e74e4e-8594f458-ac1f6b44e86e-dd5873740a9ca4d3&q=1&e=efdd7465-d92c-4c80-83ec-908c6edcb26a&u=https%3A%2F%2Fsrinstruments.com%2Fmanuals%23mariner_manuals>
>> >
>> > The only SR Mariner Knotmeter I ever worked on (on a friend's C&C 35
>> > Mk.I 1973) was self powered.  In other words, no external power was
>> > needed (except for the backlight for the instrument face for night
>> > use), the paddle-wheel seemed to be a generator.
>> >
>> > More info here: https://srinstruments.com/r/manuals/public/MANSELF.pdf
>> <https://protect2.fireeye.com/v1/url?k=02beb11d-5fcd227c-02be986a-ac1f6b44e86e-410501274e5fda22&q=1&e=efdd7465-d92c-4c80-83ec-908c6edcb26a&u=https%3A%2F%2Fsrinstruments.com%2Fr%2Fmanuals%2Fpublic%2FMANSELF.pdf>
>> >
>> > Ken H.
>> >
>>
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