thank you everyone. I really appreciate the information. I will go check
and report back.

Stay safe!

Bo

On Mon, May 18, 2020 at 8:32 AM Ken Heaton via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Yup, that's correct. If there are only two wires coming from
> the paddlewheel transducer, it is likely this 'generator' type as a more
> modern hall effect transducer will have at least three wires (I think).
>
> Of course a broke wire or bad connection anywhere between the transducer
> and the instrument will cause it all to not work.  We would just pull the
> transducer and connect it directly to the back of the instrument to see
> what happens.
>
> From the Troubleshooting section (last page) of the pdf I linked:
>
> TROUBLESHOOTING
>
> DISPLAY READS ZERO- The problem could be either the transmitter or the
> display. Please follow the proceeding steps to determine cause of the
> problem-
>
> A. Measure the two wires of the transmitter with an ohm meter for
> resistance value of approximately 2000 ohms (2K ohms). Do not spin the
> paddlewheel.
>
> a. If unit is good, then check paddlewheel for any broken fins or missing
> magnets.
> b. If unit is open (infinite resistance) then unit needs replacing.
>
> B. Measure with an AC voltmeter when the paddlewheel is spinning. You
> should get approximately 1.0 VAC at about 5 knots of speed when unloaded
> (not hooked up to display).
>
> INTERMITTENT READINGS- Keep the unit wired as normal and add an AC
> voltmeter to where the input wires of the transmitter are connected. Motor
> or sail as usual-
>
> A. If an AC voltage is being produced but no speed indication appears on
> display, then the problem is in the display.
> B. If readings only occur when voltages are produced, then the paddlewheel
> is not always turning. Clean paddlewheel first and be sure it spins freely,
> and then try again. If the results are the same then paddlewheel may need
> replacing.
>
>
>
>
> On Mon, 18 May 2020 at 09:18, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> So if I understand it correctly, the theory of operation for these
>> generator style knot meters would simply be a 2 wire system and a voltage
>> developed between the two?  I would expect that a simple initial test would
>> be for continuity between the two wires with the wheel stopped.  Then spin
>> the wheel and check for voltage proportional to the speed of the wheel.
>>
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C&C 37+
>> Solomons, MD
>>
>>
>>
>> On Mon, May 18, 2020, 07:38 Joe Della Barba via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> There are (were) some generator knotmeters. Coquina came with one when
>>> we bought her. If memory serves, it topped out at 10 or 12 knots and it
>>> was always fun to peg it :)
>>>
>>> Joe
>>>
>>> Coquina
>>>
>>> On 5/18/2020 5:32 AM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List wrote:
>>> > Have you looked at this web page?  This takes yo to the manuals for SR
>>> > Mariner Instruments (since 1973):
>>> > https://srinstruments.com/manuals#mariner_manuals
>>> >
>>> > The only SR Mariner Knotmeter I ever worked on (on a friend's C&C 35
>>> > Mk.I 1973) was self powered.  In other words, no external power was
>>> > needed (except for the backlight for the instrument face for night
>>> > use), the paddle-wheel seemed to be a generator.
>>> >
>>> > More info here: https://srinstruments.com/r/manuals/public/MANSELF.pdf
>>> >
>>> > Ken H.
>>> >
>>>
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>
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