One possible thing is the calibration is way off.

Joe

Coquina

On 8/4/2020 12:21 PM, General Gao wrote:
I wanted to come back to this thread. Did some cleaning on land, had my daughter rotated the Hall effect sensor, the needle moved, thought it was all good. We later launched the boat and it turned out that the reading was off still. It read about half of what it was supposed to be.

What would this indicate?

Thanks,

Bo

On Sat, May 23, 2020 at 1:32 PM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

    Dielectric grease is made specifically for electrical use. Any
    auto parts store has it for about $5.

    Joe

    Coquina

    On 5/23/2020 12:54 PM, General Gao via CnC-List wrote:
    that is what I am thinking. Would vaseline work?

    Thank you,

    Bo

    On Mon, May 18, 2020 at 3:49 PM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List
    <cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

        Put some dielectric grease on the connections ;)

        */Joe Della Barba Coquina C&C 35  MK I/*

        */www.dellabarba.com <http://www.dellabarba.com>/*

        *From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
        <mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>] *On Behalf Of
        *General Gao via CnC-List
        *Sent:* Monday, May 18, 2020 3:41 PM
        *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
        *Cc:* General Gao <general.z....@gmail.com
        <mailto:general.z....@gmail.com>>
        *Subject:* [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List speedometer - C&C 35 Mk2

        Reporting back. followed the guide and verified the
        transmitter had resistance of 1787ohms, verified there was
        VAC output when the paddle was turning fast (couldn't get to
        the 5knots as boat is on land). Decided to sand the
        connectors, and put it back, tested again, and it
        worked...the connectors looked without rust, a bit surprised.

        Thank you everyone for the kind help!

        Stay safe, stay healthy.

        Regards,

        Bo

        On Mon, May 18, 2020 at 11:42 AM General Gao
        <general.z....@gmail.com <mailto:general.z....@gmail.com>> wrote:

            thank you everyone. I really appreciate the information.
            I will go check and report back.

            Stay safe!

            Bo

            On Mon, May 18, 2020 at 8:32 AM Ken Heaton via CnC-List
            <cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

                Yup, that's correct. If there are only two wires
                coming from the paddlewheel transducer, it is likely
                this 'generator' type as a more modern hall effect
                transducer will have at least three wires (I think).

                Of course a broke wire or bad connection anywhere
                between the transducer and the instrument will
                cause it all to not work.  We would just pull the
                transducer and connect it directly to the back of
                the instrument to see what happens.

                From the Troubleshooting section (last page) of
                the pdf I linked:

                TROUBLESHOOTING

                DISPLAY READS ZERO- The problem could be either the
                transmitter or the display. Please follow the
                proceeding steps to determine cause of the problem-

                    A. Measure the two wires of the transmitter with
                    an ohm meter for resistance value of
                    approximately 2000 ohms (2K ohms). Do not spin
                    the paddlewheel.

                        a. If unit is good, then check paddlewheel
                        for any broken fins or missing magnets.

                        b. If unit is open (infinite resistance) then
                        unit needs replacing.

                    B. Measure with an AC voltmeter when the
                    paddlewheel is spinning. You should get
                    approximately 1.0 VAC at about 5 knots of speed
                    when unloaded (not hooked up to display).

                INTERMITTENT READINGS- Keep the unit wired as normal
                and add an AC voltmeter to where the input wires of
                the transmitter are connected. Motor or sail as usual-

                    A. If an AC voltage is being produced but no
                    speed indication appears on display, then the
                    problem is in the display.

                    B. If readings only occur when voltages are
                    produced, then the paddlewheel is not always
                    turning. Clean paddlewheel first and be sure it
                    spins freely, and then try again. If the results
                    are the same then paddlewheel may need replacing.

                On Mon, 18 May 2020 at 09:18, Josh Muckley via
                CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com
                <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

                    So if I understand it correctly, the theory of
                    operation for these generator style knot meters
                    would simply be a 2 wire system and a voltage
                    developed between the two?  I would expect that a
                    simple initial test would be for continuity
                    between the two wires with the wheel stopped. 
                    Then spin the wheel and check for voltage
                    proportional to the speed of the wheel.

                    Josh Muckley

                    S/V Sea Hawk

                    1989 C&C 37+

                    Solomons, MD

                    On Mon, May 18, 2020, 07:38 Joe Della Barba via
                    CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com
                    <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

                        There are (were) some generator knotmeters.
                        Coquina came with one when
                        we bought her. If memory serves, it topped
                        out at 10 or 12 knots and it
                        was always fun to peg it :)

                        Joe

                        Coquina

                        On 5/18/2020 5:32 AM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List
                        wrote:
                        > Have you looked at this web page?  This
                        takes yo to the manuals for SR
                        > Mariner Instruments (since 1973):
                        >
                        https://srinstruments.com/manuals#mariner_manuals
                        
<https://protect2.fireeye.com/v1/url?k=8594dd2f-d8e74e4e-8594f458-ac1f6b44e86e-dd5873740a9ca4d3&q=1&e=efdd7465-d92c-4c80-83ec-908c6edcb26a&u=https%3A%2F%2Fsrinstruments.com%2Fmanuals%23mariner_manuals>
                        >
                        > The only SR Mariner Knotmeter I ever worked
                        on (on a friend's C&C 35
                        > Mk.I 1973) was self powered.  In other
                        words, no external power was
                        > needed (except for the backlight for the
                        instrument face for night
                        > use), the paddle-wheel seemed to be a
                        generator.
                        >
                        > More info here:
                        https://srinstruments.com/r/manuals/public/MANSELF.pdf
                        
<https://protect2.fireeye.com/v1/url?k=02beb11d-5fcd227c-02be986a-ac1f6b44e86e-410501274e5fda22&q=1&e=efdd7465-d92c-4c80-83ec-908c6edcb26a&u=https%3A%2F%2Fsrinstruments.com%2Fr%2Fmanuals%2Fpublic%2FMANSELF.pdf>
                        >
                        > Ken H.
                        >

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