Adam wrote:
i'd avoid the drying cycle not because of the average temperature, but
because it's usually radiant heat and you can easily get hot spots on
the case that can warp. i'd absolutely avoid the usual automatic
dishwasher detergent because of it's caustic nature, even if others
haven't been able to measure an effect. it's probably not great for the
resin either, although it's a brief exposure. regular hand wash soap
won't work because it suds too much, you'll get suds coming out the air
vents of the dishwasher. yes, i've tried even small amounts of
"regular" dishwashing soap, it's a mess.
-------------
> What I also wanted to ask about is the detergent. Given that dishwashing
> detergent are generally caustic, should I take any precautions about
> subjecting my Macs to it?
>
> 2: I also want to bleach the Macs. I know this has been gone over numerous
> times, but I do have a few questions. Firstly, none of the supermarkets I've
> checked here in Australia sell Chrolox. Can someone tell me the generic
> chemical name so I can source something similar?
> Secondly, I understand that the bleaching process removes the slight sheen
> of the Mac case. Is this because of the bleach itself, or the scrubbing
> part? If so, is it possible to avoid the scrubbing - possiby by running the
> machine in the dishwasher again - to retain that shine.
>
> Instead of spraying the bleach on, has anyone tried immersing the case in a
> pail of the stuff to soak? I guess a lighter bleach could be acheived this
> way if it was left there for long enough, but don't know what the effect
> would be on the dark inner surfaces of the case, let alone the lettering
> ("Macintosh SE/30") and stickers on the outside.
chlorox is brand name here in the u.s., commonly used as a generic term.
it refers to standard chlorine based liquid bleach.
i'd avoid immersion, again to avoid problems with the shielding coating
on the inside. the bleaching likely does remove the sheen directly.
you are oxidizing the surface (oxidizing includes burning with chlorine,
or any thing else that donates an electron). best to keep the bleach on
the outside. doubtless putting it in the sun afterwards makes the
bleach more active from the exposure to u.v., the concentration that
happens when it dries also makes it much more aggressive.
doubtless the bleach would be very, very hard on the printing and
especially the color logo. in the case of the logo at least, you could
protect it by masking it with lard or another fat/grease. i've also
used this trick to mask areas when spray painting, since it's easy to
remove the grease later. it's allot easier to get grease just where you
want it than masking tape sometimes, and it's easier to clean off than
the adhesive. you just have to be careful to keep the grease where you
want it and not move it around when painting which isn't usually too
much of a problem with spray painting. finally, any bleaching will make
the color lighter on either the beige or silver cases. that's what
bleach does and is designed to do.
> Oh, and while I'm thinking of it, has anyone tried bleaching such things as
> keycaps?
that would probably be fine, after removing them from the keyboard of
course. i would try a few before doing all of them. it would likely
remove the "sheen", although i think that would probably be good. i'm
not sure about apple keycaps, but most good key caps have the marking
molded in with colored plastic not printed on so that it stays as the
keys wear. i've never seen the marking worn off an apple keyboard key
so it's probably also molded in.
> And finally, I have a Colour Classic in a pretty rough condition. Not only
> is there an engraving on the top, but the front has a scratch also (it did
> time in a primary school.) Does anyone have any advice on how to reduce the
> appearance of these flaws. I've been thinking of finding someone here in
> Aus. who has a CC they want to paint and swapping machines...
the scratches probably could be filled in with auto body putty normally
used by body shops but likely available at auto parts stores. it's
often fiberglass based, and the apple cases are a glass fiber reinforced
plastic and likely compatible (the only question is weather or not it
will stick or the remote possibility of the solvent being too aggressive
and melting things). of course if you putty fill it you'll have to
repaint it, or at least repaint spots and blend it in. marks, if they
haven't soaked in too deeply can often be removed with turpentine (which
is harmless to plastic, but removes paint, marks, and tape scum
effectively) or rubbing alcohol, although rubbing alcohol often only
partially removes the marks and actually makes what's left more permanent.
----------
--
"To preserve liberty, it is essential that the whole body of the people
always possess arms, and be taught alike, especially when young, how to
use them." (Richard Henry Lee, Virginia delegate to the Continental
Congress, initiator of the Declaration of Independence, and member of
the first Senate, which passed the Bill of Rights.)
--
Compact Macs is sponsored by <http://lowendmac.com/>.
Support Low End Mac <http://lowendmac.com/lists/support.html>
Compact Macs list info: <http://lowendmac.com/lists/compact.shtml>
The FAQ: <http://macfaq.org/>
--> AOL users, remove "mailto:";
Send list messages to: <mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To unsubscribe, email: <mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
For digest mode, email: <mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subscription questions: <mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Archive:<http://www.mail-archive.com/compact.macs%40mail.maclaunch.com/>
Using a Mac? Free email & more at Applelinks! http://www.applelinks.com
