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In a message dated 5/20/01 7:53:12 PM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > I started drilling out the rivets with a 1/8" drill and this seems just a > touch small. Plus it's hard to stay centered on that big flat flush rivet > (no dimple) even though I punched a hole in the center. Some of this has been covered, but here goes anyhow. Stick with the 1/8" drill. It is slightly smaller than the rivet shank and so you will not run the risk of enlarging the hole. Drill through the factory head of the rivet only. Use the shank of another drill or a 1/8" punch to pop the head off then punch the shank out the back. Supporting the material makes this easier sometimes. Use what's called a "split point" bit. It will not walk around like a regular one. Spin the drill one or 2 revolutions by hand to start it. No punching necessary. If this does not work, get a rivet removal jig. (Doesn't work for flush rivets.) The real reason to use a #30 bit for new holes is that it's nearly impossible to ram a 0.125 rivit into a 0.125 hole. Zero clearance and all that. And the shank swells when you drive the rivet. John ==^================================================================ EASY UNSUBSCRIBE click here: http://topica.com/u/?aVxiLm.aVzvvT Or send an email To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] This email was sent to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] T O P I C A -- Register now to manage your mail! http://www.topica.com/partner/tag02/register ==^================================================================
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