Paul -
Make sure that the TRANSCEIVE switch is in SEPARATE and the MODE switch
is in SSB. Are you SURE the relay is dropping out? If these are
correct, pull V11 out of the socket. A heater-cathode short in this
tube will keep the transmitter keyed.
Check the relay carefully. It is possible for the "Normally Closed"
contacts to be pressed down far enough to trap the "Arm" contact between
the NC and "Normally Open" contacts, keeping the receiver "On" even
though the relay is not energized.
A 150 ohm resistor at R3 will dissipate about 1.5 - 2W, which will make
the resistor quite warm. 2W of heat is 2W of heat, regardless of how
big the resistor is! A maximum of 18 VDC ACROSS R3 is within the
"normal" range.
73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA
Drake 2-B, 4-B, C-Line& TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
<www.k4oah.com>
Paul Gerhardt wrote:
100+ watts out but T4 not going fully to standby mode.
Idle current is ok same as before but it is still 'idling' with the TR
relay in Receive. I can hear 'noise' in the receiver especially with
the INJ cable plugged in.
Not all the damage has been discovered.
Today I did find a short in one of the 'flea bay' tubes between
Cathode and the 'middle' screen on pin 7. The R30 68 ohm 1/2 watt
resistor is on pin 7 and it opened.
The 100 5 Watt resistor in the AC4 opened this has been replaced with
an on-hand 150 ohm 5 watt which is still running hot with the tubes in
Filament fuse opened and has been replaced with proper fuse
Will ck some more voltages tomorrow.
--
Paul Gerhardt
K3PG
http://pgerhardt.blogspot.com
QRP ARCI 6674
FP 274
_______________________________________________
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist