ALL of the screws for the card cage cover need to be there, and snug. Don't overtighten, they will strip the chassis.
The +10V and the frequency alignments are the most critical. You probably won't need to touch the RF/IF cans or anything underneath the DR-7 except maybe the carrier balance. The RIT center pot should be accessible from the bottom through a hole in the parent board. Replace the filter capacitor on the DC-DC converter ("power supply") board. Don't ask why, just do it. It is worthwhile to replace the fixed passband pots and the +10 pot with 10-turn trimpots as long as you are at it. Unless you have doubts about the calibration, I wouldn't touch the wattmeter and SWR balance adjustments. Judgement call... AGC alignment should go by the book. If you will be doing CW, give Floyd's article a read. It's spot on: http://www.wb4hfn.com/DRAKE/DrakeArticles/TR7_Key_Clicks.pdf There are some quick and dirty tech notes from Drake's service department here: http://www.zerobeat.net/drakelist/tr7bookalign.html If you have any questions, ask. 73 -Jim NU0C On Mon, 3 Mar 2014 19:36:27 -0800 (PST), Mark Nace wrote: >I bought my "new" TR7 28 years ago (as my first rig ever) and am about to do >do my first alignment check. I have re-seated the boards once, and that cured >most of the ills. I have a late-model TR7, along with the maint manual. If I >do it "by the book", is there anything I should watch out for ?? Mark N5KAE -- The universe we're in will reach absolute zero in three hours. Safe is relative. - Idris, "The Doctor's Wife" _______________________________________________ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist