I've been sending right handed for decades, but the older I get, the more left-handed I seem to become, and I carry a lot less tension when I'm being a lefty, so a few weeks ago, I gave left handed paddle keying a try. At first, it was very strange. The keying was fine, but I could practically feel my brain moving the internal furniture about as it worked out the routing. At field day this year, I ended up with the KX3 on the left, and the laptop on the right. I'd hoped to be computer keying this year, but I wasn't that organized, so I used the KX3 Palm micro-paddles left handed :). It was all working great! I'd drop a dit now and again, but all was well until, at some point Saturday evening, I started getting fuzzy, and right in the middle of a QSO, wait, uh, what? I can't seem to send anymore! Yikes! Fortunately, the op on the other end waited until I'd cranked the keyer speed down a bit and finally sent our club call and exchange correctly. Thank you, who every you were! I got up, took a walk, had a cuppa, and went back to work without a glitch.



On Mon, 27 Jun 2016, Barry LaZar wrote:

I spent a lot of time this weekend copying CW operators who were superb and a lot who barely know how to send. I was in the latter category and quite oftenand I would receive a QLF??. I built an accukeyer featured in QST a lot of years ago and in a number of the ARRL Handbooks.

I bought a FYO paddle set which is what the Bencher looks like. I never did use iambic sending, nor do I today. However, the result was no more QLF?, and my fatigue level is much lower after a long weekend.

My point is you need to really practice to get good with a key so you can be read. An electronic keyer, like in the Elecraft radios or a Winkeyer used with a dual or single paddle set will really clean up your sending and lessen your fatigue, even if you never use the iambic features available.

73,
Barry
K3NDM

------ Original Message ------
From: "Dave Fugleberg" <dave.w...@gmail.com>
To: "Dale Putnam" <daleput...@hotmail.com>; "Bill" <w2...@nycap.rr.com>; "elecraft@mailman.qth.net" <elecraft@mailman.qth.net>
Sent: 6/27/2016 2:00:53 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] CW Key Recommendation

One other thing to add for the original poster...
Something that's really helped me is to use a program called Iambic Master
to help me learn how to send well with paddles. It requires you to have a
winkey-compatible keyer connected to a PC (I use a Microham unit).
You plug your paddles into the keyer, and the program shows you an
exchange, which you must 'send' properly before moving on. This showed me
how truly awful my timing between words and letters was.
On Fri, Jun 24, 2016 at 6:36 PM Dale Putnam <daleput...@hotmail.com> wrote:

 I have a J-38 from WWII.. original base, and very nice, with the fabric
 covered cable, FS.

 photos available too.

 And I recommend it... SKCC #87  loves it.


 Have a great day,
 --... ...-- Dale - WC7S in Wy



 ________________________________
 From: Elecraft <elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net> on behalf of Bill <
 w2...@nycap.rr.com>
 Sent: Friday, June 24, 2016 12:34 PM
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] CW Key Recommendation

 Long arm keys, typically those found in maritime service, are the most
 pleasant of the straight keys to  use. They are expensive.

 An inexpensive alternative is the Czech key seen at:
 http://www.uv3r.com/CzechMorseKeys/ has a nice feel also. They can be
 [http://www.uv3r.com/CzechMorseKeys/images/P1000781b_opt.jpg]<
 http://www.uv3r.com/CzechMorseKeys/>

 Czech Morse Keys - UV-3R<http://www.uv3r.com/CzechMorseKeys/>
 www.uv3r.com
 Czech army, military morse code key importers and Baofeng UV-3R suppliers



 found from $25 to $60 on the Internet. Their good action is due to their
folded long-arm design. I have one and it is my straight key of preference.

 If you go for a bug, nothing beats the VizBug at:
 http://vizkey.com/order.html#90degreevizbug    It is a small and very
 quiet bug (no thrashing machine noises).

 I have a Vibroplex single lever paddle that I have been using since the
 early 60s. Perfect for a normal keyer (don't care much for the one in
 the K3).

 I have never used a two paddle anything - so no comments about them.

 Want to learn more about keys and CW operation in general? Take a look
 at: http://radiotelegraphy.net/

 I have no business interests in any of the above and really don't care
 if you choose an Amplidan or just tap two bare wires together - both of
 which will get the same job done.

 Bill W2BLC K-Line

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