WA2KDG wrote:
The "blob" method requires only one step and should be done with high
heat...I used to use an old fashioned unregulated 40 watt iron for
this...Today I use a Hakko 808...There is no need to first scrape the
wire...The object is to burn the enamel off, and the heat of the iron and
the solder alone will do that..If the enamel won't burn, the iron is simply
not hot enough...Start as close to the core as possible...Put a blob of
solder on the tip, immerse the wire in the blob, and slowly work out towards
the tip of the wire, adding more solder as necessary...
Jerry,
That's the same method I use with the exception of the "hold-down" portion.
Years ago I bought a "Third-Hand Jig" from RS that has 'gator clips attached
to movable arms. I place this jig on a sheet of typing....er, printer paper
and hold the wound toroid with one of the 'gator clips. This not only holds
the coil steady but acts as a heat sink so the toroid and wound wire doesn't
heat up to much. I start at the core end and work my way out to the end of
the wire and the solder blob and burnt enamel just falls off the end of the
wire onto the paper. Makes clean up easy too!
One thing for sure, the solder blob method makes the phrase "snortin'
solder" come to life!! I also use a circuline mag lamp between me and the
work that keeps (most of) the smoke out of my face.
BTW, I use a Weller with a 700 degree tip and have never had to scrape the
enamel with the wire provided by Elecraft. It takes a few seconds to melt
the enamel but it will melt at that temp. If memory serves (and at my age it
often doesn't) they use a 600 degree thermaleze coated wire.
Don,
K5DW
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