> Sounds like you are working the butt of that machine, in which 
> case it 
> sure ought to pay for good lead screws. I belong to some lists of 
> home 
> boat builders. I would really like to build a router about 4ft x 
> 16ft .  
> I could cut out complete boat kits  and in a home shop there would 
> not 
> be much overhead costs.  Even if the machine were a bit slow   it 
> would 
> still be worth while. I would likely use wrack and pinion drives 
> or belt 
> drives. I have even considered chain drives of course that would 
> require 
> a more often calibrating of the machine.  I have also thought 
> about 
> building the machine from wood with metal ways at least for the 
> bed. It 
> would expand and contract as moisture changes but so would the 
> wood I'd 
> be cutting so that would likely be a wash.  An accuracy of 1/32" 
> in four 
> feet would be really, really accurate for boat building.  That 
> would be 
> 1/8" in 16ft would be very perceptible.  This would require 
> cutting all 
> the lengthwise lumber and all the cross frames together so if 
> there were 
> expansion and contraction of the machine, frames and longitudinals 
> would 
> all match each other.  I have a work shed 20'x 30' that is heated 
> with a 
> wood coal stove.  I have a cnc bench mill  and south bend lathe so 
> I can 
> cast and make at least some special hardware.   Don't know if I 
> will get 
> this done but I like to think about it :-)   We'll see!
>                                                                   
>      
>                                                Doug

Doug, it's done a job or two :). It' still sit's idle more than I'd like but 
we'll see
how things progress. Btw, I'd be glad to help out w/ your boat builds if need
be [at least until you get your machine up and running] I agree that proper
lead screws should pay for themselves in time. [Thats what I tell the wife
anyway :)] 

I think for your machine a belt type drive [I'd recommend Eagle PD] would
be your best bet. Your looking for a very easily attainable accuracy level.
I prefer a steel frame [I'm biase as thats what I mainly work w/ :)] however
if I was to do mine again, I'd get it stress relieved and machined properly
when building the rail mounting beds. Long story but it will pay dividends
in the end. [I'm in the process of designing machine #2 which will be
similar in size to #1 yet it will be fully welded and stress relieved, then
machined on a very large Horizontal mill [I've used them b4 for jobs @
work and they do nice work!]  This won't happen for a couple years
[gotta pay for Machine #1 first ] . [The ballscrews that I'm
going to buy will be moved over to the new machine when it's ready.. so
there won't be a loss of $$ due to planned upgrades on machine #1.

You'd be suprised how fast that shed will fill up! I've got a 15 x 30 shop
right now and it's packed.. hardly any extra room to do anything. The new
machine will be installed in a new shop which will be built onto the first. 
Size hasn't been finalized yet but it will be more than twice as big as my
current one. [It's gonna cost me twice as much as it should 'cause I
have to spend some on additions to the house at the same time..
Democracy of a marriage....:-D]

Have fun!

J. Johnson


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