On Thursday 22 November 2012 11:50:45 Mark Wendt did opine:

> On Thu, Nov 22, 2012 at 10:49 AM, Gene Heskett <ghesk...@wdtv.com> wrote:
> > On Thursday 22 November 2012 10:42:35 Mark Wendt did opine:
> >> On Thu, Nov 22, 2012 at 8:23 AM, Dave Caroline
> >> 
> >> <dave.thearchiv...@gmail.com> wrote:
> >> > On Thu, Nov 22, 2012 at 1:13 PM, Mark Wendt <wendt.m...@gmail.com>
> > 
> > wrote:
> >> >> I've got a Hakko 472 that "Just Works" tm.  However, it has one
> >> >> little really annoying trait.  The transformer "moans."  By that,
> >> >> I mean, it doesn't have a steady hum, but more of a "waaaa,
> >> >> waaaa" in deep bass. ;-)
> >> >> 
> >> >> Would I be looking in the right direction were I to assume one or
> >> >> more of the filter caps is starting to go?  If not that, anything
> >> >> else I should look for?  No schematics of the board, so I'm
> >> >> shooting a bit in the dark here.
> >> > 
> >> > Look for loose laminations on the transformer
> >> > 
> >> > Dave Caroline
> >> 
> >> Okey doke.  Will do.
> >> 
> >> If they're lose, what methods do y'all suggest for "snugging" them
> >> back up?  Varnish?  Epoxy?
> >> 
> >> Mark
> > 
> > Most 'epoxy's today are way too fast acting, and won't sink into the
> > lamination gaps fast enough to fill them before it sets.  I'd try a
> > slow 'spar' varnish & give it a week (or more) to wick in and cure
> > before applying power again.  The superglue's wick well unless 'gel'
> > but they have a relatively poor survival compared to well cured
> > varnish if the core gets too hot.
> > 
> > Cheers, Gene
> 
> I've got some laminating epoxy that requires well over 24 hours to
> cure, and has a pot life of about three hours at room temp.  I suppose
> I could thin the epoxy with a bit of either DNA or acetone to allow it
> to wick further, but the that epoxy consistency is right about the
> same as a good, thick cuppa hot chocolate, so it should be able to
> penetrate fairly well.
> 
That might work but I haven't seen anything like the epoxy I used on Bertha 
back in the 60's.  Sold as water ski finish, clear as water & left that 
laminated walnut looking like milk chocolate, good enough to eat.  18 coats 
of it at the time, took around 8 hours at 125F in an old fridge to cure 
each one, hit it with a piece of 0000 steel wool so the next coat would 
stick.  Repeat till tired of it, let cure another 72 hours to really harden 
up, then polish on the power buffer just like a piece of steel.  Other than 
aging yellow, its been a great finish & has ridden probably 250,000 miles 
standing floor plate down across the transmission hump, against the front 
of the bench seat in many a vehicle over the last 45 or so years.  More or 
less out of sight, handier than sliced bread.  Many a deer has stood there 
watching in curiosity for the 10 seconds or so it took me to stop, swing 
open the door and slide out, trailing it behind me using the scope for a 
handle, rack a shell in and draw a bead.  Dinner (yum) got a free ride 
home. ;-)

> On the other hand, I use true spar varnish all the time when I finish
> the bamboo fly rods I make.  And I have a bunch of that laying around.
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Mark
> 
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Cheers, Gene
-- 
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
My web page: <http://coyoteden.dyndns-free.com:85/gene> is up!
Ship it.

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