On Friday 23 November 2012 08:33:05 Steve Blackmore did opine: > On Thu, 22 Nov 2012 23:02:17 -0500, you wrote: > >Both slow and fast hardeners proclaim they are not for clear coating. > >Is there a reason? > > > >Or is that from whence the age yellowing comes from? > > > >Seems to me the 105 is probably useless without the hardening catalyst. > > The 207 hardener is for clear coating - it's UV resistant but not for > long term exposure - whatever that means? > > Steve Blackmore
I read that as needing an additional coat or 3 of marine spar varnish on top for its additional UV protection. Eventually it will be so amber colored the wood will be hidden, which isn't exactly what I'd desire. This piece of Maple & Cherry is relatively clear of birdseyes and other 'curly' figures, as its just straight grained hard white Maple whose grain rolls nicely under the changing angles of the light much like a piece of Tiger Eye, which is a petrified wood. I don't want to hide that, and several coats of Sam's Stuff still shows it off quite well. That yellowing with age of the clear water ski finish on Bertha has adversely effected the color to the point that I've considered how best to remove it and start all over more than once. Originally the cocoa colored thin laminated walnut from 45 years ago, now has an amber cast that isn't at all 'tasty' looking. Piss colored, with lots of B vitamins in it would be a better description. :( Maybe I'll stick to the Sam's Stuff formula. I can make 2/3rds of a gallon of that for half the price West wants just for the qt of 105. Take a medicine container that holds about 2 oz, 1/2 oz tung oil, 1/2 oz, clear Minwax poly varnish & 1/2 oz paint thinner. Fold up 1/4 sheet of Scott Shop towel into 1x2 pad & wipe it on. Repeat at 5 or 6 hour intervals using a new pad so the layer underneath is still a bit green for good adhesion. If you let it dry 24 hours, cut the surface sheen with 0000 steel wool before re-coating. 6 or more coats doesn't seem to effect the color. Throw the bottle out after 3 or 4 days & make fresh. Its oxygen curing so the last inch in the medicine bottle will setup unless you fill it with Blox or similar. Dry nitrogen would do too, but considering that added cost, toss it & make a new one. Unfold the pad you made and drape it over the edge of the trash can while it finishes curing. Never had it happen but we're told soaked rags can start a fire, so give them lots of cooling surface when disposing. Cheers, Gene -- "There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty: soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order." -Ed Howdershelt (Author) My web page: <http://coyoteden.dyndns-free.com:85/gene> is up! Dime is money. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Monitor your physical, virtual and cloud infrastructure from a single web console. Get in-depth insight into apps, servers, databases, vmware, SAP, cloud infrastructure, etc. Download 30-day Free Trial. Pricing starts from $795 for 25 servers or applications! http://p.sf.net/sfu/zoho_dev2dev_nov _______________________________________________ Emc-users mailing list Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
