When Amazon starts their drone delivery I think I will even order stuff I have no use for (Children's shoes?) just so I can watch the drone fly in and drop the box.
Which glue matters. I bought a few different brands at the dollar store and found "Avon" brand is the best of the brands they cary and the off-brands don't work. Printers are very picky and my printer might like a brand of glue yours don't. I have yet to try water soluble hair spray on glass. I 100% recommend Amazon Prime. Where I live it is mostly free next day delivery. On Sun, Aug 2, 2020 at 2:46 PM Bruce Layne <linux...@thinkingdevices.com> wrote: > Gene: Send me your USPS address and I'll mail you a free glue stick > that's 99.44% coronavirus free. :-) > > Or buy a glue stick on Amazon. > > > https://www.amazon.com/Elmers-Strength-Washable-1-4-Ounces-E590/dp/B008M56Z0O > > Coronavirus not withstanding, it's seldom worth me making a 15 minute > trip to buy something like this when I can buy it online in a minute and > it's at my door a day or two later. Can't wait for Amazon Prime drone > delivery in 20 minutes. > > Use a nylon bristle brush to distribute the tiny bit of glue stick and > water on the glass plate, immediately before printing. I think the > scrubbing of fresh glue and water results in a high surface energy > that's needed for a good bond. > > The white glue experiments I tried resulted in something analogous to a > slick non-stick surface. I was surprised by that. It may have been the > result of the 110C bed temperature I was using for ABS. I didn't try it > with PLA or TPU. It failed with ABS and that's all I needed to know. > The glue stick and water works very well for ABS, PLA and TPU. > > I hope you enjoy glass & glue stick 3D printing as much as I do. The > trick is to get good adhesion to a hot bed and good release from a cold > bed so there are no failed prints and no need to hack and pry the part > off the build plate that results in a loss of bed level that causes > subsequent prints to fail and possible damage to the printer... or at > least damage and degradation to a plastic build surface. 3D printing > requires some patience because it's slow, but it shouldn't require much > labor and the process should be repeatable and reliable. That's > definitely an attainable goal, because I'm doing it. > > Others have already done a lot of 3D printing process development. It's > inefficient and frustrating to ignore the work of others and repeat the > painstaking development yourself. At this point, most people buy a > cheap 3D printer from a known good source (Sainsmart should have been > good to go), watch a few YouTube videos, and have reasonable success out > of the starting gate. It's been painful for me to see you struggling > with this. > > > > > On 8/2/20 4:28 PM, Gene Heskett wrote: > > On Sunday 02 August 2020 15:12:39 Bruce Layne wrote: > > > >> On 8/2/20 2:43 PM, Gene Heskett wrote: > >>> One the right in particular, there is no room for anything. About > >>> 1mm clearance between the plate and the upright carrying the PSU > >>> too. > >> It's usually possible to pinch the wire handle on a bulldog clip and > >> lift the compressed handle out of the spring steel clip once it's > >> installed for a minimal clearance clip, although the curved back on > >> the spring steel will probably protrude more than 1mm. > >> > >>> But now its slightly > >>> cloudy with dried white school glue & lots of water mixed, so we'll > >>> see how the adhesion works. > >> Based on my experience, the adhesion will be terrible. I tested white > >> Elmer's Glue-All and white Elmer's washable school glue and both > >> provided terrible ABS adhesion on glass. The only glue that's worked > >> well for me is glue stick. As I've repeatedly mentioned in this > >> ongoing 3D printing discussion, I use Elmer's X-Treme glue stick. The > >> thinnest possible application directly to glass (applied with a pound > >> or more of normal force to a cold glass plate, with a slow steady > >> motion) works well, but even better is a small smudge of glue on the > >> glass plate with a few grams of water, evenly distributed across the > >> glass plate to form a nearly invisible glue film when dried. > >> > > I have not "been to town" with a mask to get any of that. This was a > > small bottle of craft glue a good 15 yo I add an inch of water to and > > shook like a rattle gun paint can to get a wee bit of glue dissolved > > into the water. Mowing the grass, otherwise staying safe and out of > > sight here at the house. The Elmers is probably at CVS. This looks like > > heck but its sticking well after about 3 turns of the brim laydown. The > > initial clear the nozzle by running up and back on the left edge of the > > plate also stuck to clean glass, very close to as well as it stuck to > > the magnetic sign mat it came with. From that, I think clean glass is > > all it needs. OOTB and plastic wrap, it acted like it was waxed & water > > just pooled on it. Like a freshly waxed car. This part is only about 4 > > hours, its other mating half is about 8 or 9 cuz its taller and I need 3 > > of each yet. > > > > Thanks Bruce. > > > > Cheers, Gene Heskett > > > _______________________________________________ > Emc-users mailing list > Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net > https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users > -- Chris Albertson Redondo Beach, California _______________________________________________ Emc-users mailing list Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
