On Sunday 02 August 2020 21:05:48 Gene Heskett wrote: > On Sunday 02 August 2020 19:48:25 Chris Albertson wrote: > > When Amazon starts their drone delivery I think I will even order > > stuff I have no use for (Children's shoes?) just so I can watch the > > drone fly in and drop the box. > > > > Which glue matters. I bought a few different brands at the dollar > > store and found "Avon" brand is the best of the brands they cary and > > the off-brands don't work. Printers are very picky and my printer > > might like a brand of glue yours don't. I have yet to try water > > soluble hair spray on glass. I 100% recommend Amazon Prime. Where > > I live it is mostly free next day delivery. > > > > On Sun, Aug 2, 2020 at 2:46 PM Bruce Layne > > <linux...@thinkingdevices.com> > > > > wrote: > > > Gene: Send me your USPS address and I'll mail you a free glue > > > stick that's 99.44% coronavirus free. :-) > > > > > > Or buy a glue stick on Amazon. > > > > > > > > > https://www.amazon.com/Elmers-Strength-Washable-1-4-Ounces-E590/dp > > >/B 008M56Z0O > > > > > > Coronavirus not withstanding, it's seldom worth me making a 15 > > > minute trip to buy something like this when I can buy it online in > > > a minute and it's at my door a day or two later. Can't wait for > > > Amazon Prime drone delivery in 20 minutes. > > TANSTAAFL. > > > > Use a nylon bristle brush to distribute the tiny bit of glue stick > > > and water on the glass plate, immediately before printing. I > > > think the scrubbing of fresh glue and water results in a high > > > surface energy that's needed for a good bond. > > I just stopped it before it was done with the first layer, set the > extruder up 3 whole numbers, slid the putty knife under what was there > and raised the glass about 1/6 turn of the wheels, and it is still > laying individual strings on the first layer that I can see between. > So I've raised it about 1/12 of a turn more, but its up to .36mm > before it looks solid. Before I start the last cap, I'll turn the > extruder up 2 more whole points to see if it lays a wide enough strip > to touch its neighbors. I think the glass, despite being at 73C as a > starting temp, is still too cold to let the hot plastic squeeze out to > touch its neighbors. I didn't re-arrange the glue but its sticking > well anyway, strand by strand is laying exactly where its laid. And > easier to remove. > > Progress. I think.
for the last bearing cap I jacked the glass up about a 1/4" turn of the rim of the leveling wheels and added one more whole number to the extruder feed scale, 263.00 now. And went over the glue film with a dry tooth brush, knocking off some of the "knobs". This got me a solid, can't see thru it between stands, brim laydown. But when it had laid down the circles for the bolt holes, solid, can't see thru it, and went to laying the bottom, it left a gap between the inner edge of the brim and the bottom layer that you would widen with a razor blade. Must be about right. The previous brim came off cleaner than ever before. I'll get this beast tuned up yet. Now if I could reduce the support fill in the horizontal bolt holes... Those are hard to clean out. 50% is too solid. > > > The white glue experiments I tried resulted in something analogous > > > to a slick non-stick surface. I was surprised by that. While I'm surprised by how well its working, although the parts are not "popping free" as it cools, I need to use the putty knife but its effortless, no danger of scratching the glass and doesn't seem to be damaging the glue film. It stays on the glass. > > > It may > > > have been the result of the 110C bed temperature I was using for > > > ABS. I didn't try it with PLA or TPU. It failed with ABS and > > > that's all I needed to know. The glue stick and water works very > > > well for ABS, PLA and TPU. > > > > > > I hope you enjoy glass & glue stick 3D printing as much as I do. > > > The trick is to get good adhesion to a hot bed and good release > > > from a cold bed so there are no failed prints and no need to hack > > > and pry the part off the build plate that results in a loss of bed > > > level that causes subsequent prints to fail and possible damage to > > > the printer... or at least damage and degradation to a plastic > > > build surface. I worried that the stock springs for the leveler adjustment might be too weak to support the glass, but I had also clipped the stopper off the z switch so I could set it as I pleased with the adjustments to get more tension on the springs, and having that higher tension on the springs makes bed adjustments a piece of cake, the bigger disk knobs work well, and even if you overpower the spring, it pops right back up to the set height, so I'm having zero trouble with this, even with the much heavier glass. > > > 3D printing requires some patience because it's > > > slow, but it shouldn't require much labor and the process should > > > be repeatable and reliable. That's definitely an attainable goal, > > > because I'm doing it. I seem to be getting there. Once the print is started, lights out till its done. Thats getting there, when you can select the file and walk away, you are there. [...] Cheers, Gene Heskett -- "There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty: soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order." -Ed Howdershelt (Author) If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable. - Louis D. Brandeis Genes Web page <http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene> _______________________________________________ Emc-users mailing list Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
