So far I'm well under the $974 of the R8 version although if I had to pay 
retail for the GIM controller I'm using then I'd be well over that.  So far I 
think I'm at about $200 Cdn.  plus I'm using one of the first prototype GIMs I 
build almost 10 years ago.

https://www.kurtworkholding.com/product/kurt-bridgeport-series-i-std-2-j/

What happens with yours if you pressed the unload button for 5 seconds?  
Obviously the tool would drop out.  But does anything else unscrew or require 
manual operations to put back?


> -----Original Message-----
> From: John Figie [mailto:zephyr9...@gmail.com]
> Sent: November-22-21 2:30 PM
> To: Enhanced Machine Controller (EMC)
> Subject: Re: [Emc-users] Spindle positioning.
> 
> Instead of a drawbar with a hex end you could use the kind with a spline
> end like the ones that Kurt sells for their power drawbar. My Bridgeport
> came with a Kurt power drawbar. I have had it since around 2003. Still
> using the same drawbar. The socket looks kind of like a torx socket - maybe
> it is - I never looked at it that close. The Kurt uses butterfly impact
> kind of like yours. It just uses regulated air pressure. I just let it
> drive the drawbar for about 1 or 2 seconds. It has never stripped and I
> have never replaced the drawbar.  Tooling is NMTB 30. Home shop use only.
> 
> http://www.machineability.com/Bridgeport_series_II.html
> 
> John
> 
> 
> On Mon, Nov 22, 2021, 3:39 PM John Dammeyer <jo...@autoartisans.com> wrote:
> 
> > Hi Mathew,
> > I want to be able to swap easily and quickly between R8 and TTS.  Here's a
> > selection of some of the tooling.
> >
> > http://www.autoartisans.com/mill/ToolSelection.jpg
> >
> >  There's a full set of R8 collets of course.  The spring loaded Tap Holder
> > has a 3/4" shank so it really just needs a TTS collar to make it full TTS.
> >   The two gear cutter arbours for the different sized cutters.  Face mill.
> > Changing from a 1/4" drill bit means I have to swap out the TTS to install
> > the R8 based expensive 16mm JT3 ball bearing chuck.
> >
> > To change completely over to TTS is expensive.  To change to a mill with a
> > NMBT or CAT cone type is really expensive.   The lowest cost power toolbar
> > system was the butterfly wrench and air cylinder.  Cost escalated as the
> > ordered electric pneumatic valves just never showed up from China so I went
> > local.  Not really expensive but it adds up as do all the fittings.
> >
> > At this point I could see spending as much as $150 Cdn. for the planetary
> > gear and stepper combination.    Still way less expensive than fully
> > switching over to TTS which I probably will over time but not all in one
> > shot.   And I'm not sure the TTS wouldn't slip with the 5/8" chuck holding
> > a 1" reduced shank drill bit.
> >
> > First step now is to wait for the 12 point deep socket.
> >
> > John
> >
> >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: Matthew Herd [mailto:herd.m...@gmail.com]
> > > Sent: November-22-21 10:49 AM
> > > To: Enhanced Machine Controller (EMC)
> > > Subject: Re: [Emc-users] Spindle positioning.
> > >
> > > Hi John,
> > >
> > > You don?t need pull studs on the R-8 collets, just thread the draw bar
> > into the collet. Either until it stops or loctite the draw bar at
> > > the right depth. Then use a Belleville washer and air cylinder setup
> > like Andy?s.
> > >
> > > Matt
> > >
> > > > On Nov 22, 2021, at 1:32 PM, John Dammeyer <jo...@autoartisans.com>
> > wrote:
> > > >
> > > > ?It's the lowering of the wrench that I don't have a lot of control
> > on.  It's pushed down hard enough to keep the draw bar on top of
> > > the spindle so as it turns it pushes the sometimes a bit stiff R8 all
> > the way down and out.  If it's allow to move upwards (or I haven't
> > > locked the quill) then the drawbar may unthread but I then have to push
> > on the draw bar.
> > > >
> > > > A sensor on the Z down may be what has to happen.  Then repeated tries
> > with blipping the air wrench until it goes down all the
> > > way is an option.
> > > >
> > > > Making a draw bar from oil hardening steel and hardening the head a
> > bit so it doesn't get carved away and ends up more slippery
> > > might also be a requirement.
> > > >
> > > > John
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >> -----Original Message-----
> > > >> From: andy pugh [mailto:bodge...@gmail.com]
> > > >> Sent: November-22-21 5:41 AM
> > > >> To: Enhanced Machine Controller (EMC)
> > > >> Subject: Re: [Emc-users] Spindle positioning.
> > > >>
> > > >>> On Mon, 22 Nov 2021 at 08:03, John Dammeyer <jo...@autoartisans.com>
> > wrote:
> > > >>>
> > > >>> One still has to line up the socket to the hex head of the drawbar.
> > And since it can be at any position relative to the spindle the
> > > >> sensing has to happen against the hex head.  Rotate spindle until hex
> > head is at a known position.
> > > >>
> > > >> How about:
> > > >>
> > > >> Lower the wrench, but don't turn it on.
> > > >> Rotate the spindle until the wrench drops down to the "engaged" height
> > > >> (sensor on the slide)
> > > >> Then operate the wrench.
> > > >>
> > > >> --
> > > >> atp
> > > >> "A motorcycle is a bicycle with a pandemonium attachment and is
> > > >> designed for the especial use of mechanical geniuses, daredevils and
> > > >> lunatics."
> > > >> ? George Fitch, Atlanta Constitution Newspaper, 1912
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >> _______________________________________________
> > > >> Emc-users mailing list
> > > >> Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
> > > >> https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > _______________________________________________
> > > > Emc-users mailing list
> > > > Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
> > > > https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
> > >
> > >
> > > _______________________________________________
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> > > https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
> >
> >
> >
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> 
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