Series DC motors are about as cheap as you can get in terms of raw torque 
and HP per dollar.  That's why they're used in forklifts (and electric 
drills and vacuum cleaners).  

I'm not a motor expert, but I suspect that the total system cost is low 
because the controller is relatively simple.  You only need one blinking big 
switch (semiconductor array) because (1) the motor itself takes care of 
commutation (turning DC to AC) and (2) the field isn't separately excited so 
doesn't depend on the controller.

AFAIK most (all?) of the drag racers use series motors.  You can find out 
more about that over at NEDRA (nedra.com).

So if they have so much torque and power for the money, why doesn't Tesla 
use series motors?

Some possible answers:

Their torque characteristics (peak at stall, falling off at higher rpm) are 
the reverse of an ICE's.  That would be unfamiliar and maybe uncomfortable 
for some ICEV drivers.  If you have a manual trans in your series-motor 
conversion EV, you UPSHIFT when you need to accelerate hard.

Because of the mechanical commutator, series motors are noisier and need 
more maintenance than brushless motors.  OTOH, you can't fireball the 
commutator of an AC induction motor because it doesn't have one.  

Series motor redline RPM is much lower than induction, for the same reason.  
Commutators have a tendency to fly apart if they overspeed.

A series motor will overspeed if it's run at full voltage with no load.  It 
can easily go from nominal rpm to explosion rpm in a second or less.  You 
need safeguards to detect this and shut down the motor in case something in 
the driveline breaks.  A blast shield on the motor isn't a bad idea.

You also need safeguards to detect controller failure, because the typical 
failure mode for a series motor controller is FULL ON.  This is known in 
Audi-ese and Toyota-ese as "unintended acceleration," and with 750hp behind 
it, is apt to be fatal.  Normally if an induction motor's inverter fails, 
the car will stop (in some failures, possibly rather abruptly, which has its 
own hazards).

Regenerative braking is a major challenge with a series motor.  This is not 
the same as the plug braking available on some Curtis controllers, which is 
generally not recommended for use in a road EV.  

A lot of good and expensive silicon has become smoke trying to handle regen. 
Very few commercial EV controllers today try to do it.  Zapi is the only 
brand I know of, but there may be others.

I'm probably an outlier on this list, since a lot of the DIY folks here are 
series motor users and like them.  However, I might be more similar to your 
target customer.  While I'm not in the market for a $150k high performance 
sports car, if I were, I wouldn't buy one with a DC series motor. 

No offense to anyone, but at that price point I expect refinement, and 
that's just not what you get with a series motor drive.  They tend to be 
more-brawn-than-brain, hair-all-over beasts.  But if you like driving an ICE 
with a wild cam and a loping idle, maybe a series motor would be right up 
your alley.

Another option that's seldom mentioned is a DC sep-ex motor.  With a proper 
controller, its torque characteristic is more familiar and (IMO) better 
suited to a car.  Regen is easy and common.

The controller is somewhat more expensive than a series motor controller, 
since it has to supply field current.  However, it's quite a bit cheaper (or 
should be) than an induction motor inverter, since it doesn't need 3 or more 
big semiconductor switches.  Controller failure still can mean full on and 
flat out, so your controller logic has to detect that and take action, but 
the motor won't normally overspeed if suddenly unloaded.

The downside is that you still have mechanical commutation, which brings in 
the maintenance and noise issues.

I personally don't know who currently makes a high power sep-ex EV motor.  
Maybe someone else here does.

Hope this helps.

David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EVDL Administrator

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