On 31.03.2009 Lee Actor wrote:
My method is very similar (even to using the same printer), except that I
staple first and then fold. I've got the paper guide on my long-arm stapler
carefully set so that the staples enter precisely at the midpoint of the
booklet (8.5" in my case, as I use 11"x17" paper for booklets). Folding is
much easier when the part is already stapled, and I'm very picky about the
precision of the fold (BTW, at one time I used 3 staples per booklet, but
have found that 2 staples, placed appr. 1.75" from the top and bottom edges,
are far superior).
That's interesting. Unfortunately I have never been able to staple
accurately enough without already having a folding line there. I will
try my luck again, perhaps my current stapler won't work for that. On
the other hand I find it interesting that you can get your staples
precise enough, as that certainly makes the folding easier.
I use this format for most parts, and reduced scores up to 36 pages (9
sheets of heavyweight 105 g/m2 paper, plus a heavy stock cover, which is
about the limit my stapler can handle). As you mention, a heavy duty
precision rotary trimmer is a must, though I find that trimming isn't really
necessary until the part reaches maybe 16 pages, as page creep isn't
particularly objectionable on smaller parts.
I wasted a lot of money on a "rolling trimmer", is that what you call a
rotary trimmer? I bought one which was specified to cut up to 30 sheets,
but it didn't really. So a couple of weeks ago I eventually ordered a
Dahle 561 Guillotine cutter, and that is truely excellent.
Most of my full scores are 11"x14", which I bind myself using an Akiles
Coil-Mac and a supply of 36" plastic coils; so far, 3 different sizes of
coils (8mm, 10mm, and 12mm) have been adequate to handle all my scores from
smallest to largest (140+ pages -- no operas yet). There are several
advantages to investing in the equipment to bind your scores yourself
instead of taking them to a place like Kinko's, not the least of which is
that they typically only carry 12" coils -- not ideal for larger conductor's
scores. For other reasons not to go to Kinko's, fill in your favorite
horror story here: _____________ (everyone who's been to a Kinko's has one).
I would not use plastic coils ever again. They break easily, and they
are too noisy for any recording situation. I am tempted to get a wire
binding system, but they are quite expensive. I don't really need those
often, so the local photocopying shop will usually do.
I am intrigued by your method of stapling, as my stapler (like many) turns
back the legs of the staple so they're curved, and I'd really prefer them to
be flat against the paper. Or I could look into a heavy duty saddle
stapler, but they tend to be kind of expensive (starting at $150-$200).
The curved legs were the reason I had this idea. It was actually much
easier than I anticipated, although I broke two steel drills. Here is
what I did: My stapler has two ways of bending the legs, inward and
outward. I never use the outward setting anyway, so I drilled two holes
in it (2mm drill) right at the place where the legs go through. It works
amazingly well. And I can staple much thicker booklets this way. Bending
the legs by hand is easy, and the whole thing really looks much more
professional.
Keep the tips and tricks coming...
Johannes
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