If you're planning to cover up to 1600 and not just 1500-1600, you might consider expanding your talk to include discussion of 14th and 15th-century images of saints. Robin Netherton is the expert here, but I do a little version of Jeff Foxworthy's "you might be a redneck if" that I call "they might be a saint if" in my Costume History class. Images of saints are particularly common in these centuries in Italy and the Low Countries, though they appear elsewhere as well. They tend to be wearing fanciful and/or imaginary clothing, and for some reason modern people looking for research always seem to zoom in on them.

The key is that often saints are depicted holding or standing on something odd. They might be holding a severed head, a plate of breasts, an eyeball on a stick, a spiked wheel, a tower, etc. Or these elements might be somewhere else in the painting. They often relate to the way in which the saint was martyred and were meant to identify the subject to the medieval viewer.

Another giveaway is of course a halo or a set of wings--biblical characters and angels can almost never be trusted for clothing research. Saints are also often depicted holding a strange green feather-looking thing, which is meant to be a palm frond.

I tell my students to check out the caption first then start looking for the odd props. In addition to saints and biblical folk, mythological and classical people depicted in medieval and Renaissance paintings are often not trustworthy for research. If the person is meant to represent "Honesty" or some other abstract concept, they are probably not wearing "real" clothing either.

I encourage you to work this information in, because much of the bad research that I see depicts saints, biblical, mythological, or classical people.

Melanie Schuessler



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