We used contact cement to connect the vinyl to the Velcro. I second using
bidi tape for the permanent joints.
On Aug 5, 2014 8:49 AM, "Joshua Slocum" <jfslo...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Yeah, there are several places on the internet that sell adhesive backed
> velcro. However from what I can tell, most of them don't fare so well
> against heat, so I'd be concerned about them coming off in a strong wind or
> during takedown.
>
> I'm still trying to figure out a mechanical solution.
>
>
> On Tue, Aug 5, 2014 at 11:42 AM, Frank Heasley <drheas...@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> You can get velcro that has a strong adhesive backing in 75mm wide
>> strips, from www.hobbyking.com (US Warehouse).  It's only $2.74 per
>> meter.  It is very strong, and grabs really well.
>>
>> Their US warehouse ships via USPS, and rather quickly.
>>
>>
>> On Tue, Aug 5, 2014 at 7:05 AM, Joshua Slocum <jfslo...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Some pics from our build-session on Sunday:
>>>
>>> https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B7krB_7bUPTNMmo4UUxrZ0I4REE&usp=sharing
>>>
>>> All the gluing is quite a bit of work, and velcro is expensive. As I've
>>> been building I've been thinking about how to make the whole process easier
>>> and cheaper if anyone else decides to make one.
>>> - for velcro seams, use 4" wide velcro strips rather than sewing velcro
>>> to fabric - eliminates sewing time; costs slightly less.
>>> - use bi-filament tape for non-detachable seams. Just be sure to foil
>>> tape any exposed bf tape. Should cost a bit less, and be a bit quicker than
>>> making seams with glue and fabric.
>>> - I also think using 8' of velcro on either side of the seam for anchors
>>> may have been overkill. If I were to make another one of these, I'd
>>> probably use just half that amount.
>>>
>>>
>>> On Fri, Aug 1, 2014 at 4:15 PM, Joshua Slocum <jfslo...@gmail.com>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> We just had our first gluing session on wednesday. This sunday we're
>>>> hoping to do the lion's share of the gluing. I'll be sure to take some
>>>> pictures.
>>>>
>>>> Sewing is nearly complete - only the anchors still need to be done.
>>>> They are long strips of cordura with velcro sewn on - one end terminates in
>>>> a webbing loop where tow straps can pass through and attach to playa
>>>> staples.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Fri, Aug 1, 2014 at 4:07 PM, Austin Desautels <adesa...@gmail.com>
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Josh, I'm attempting the very same thing, though I can't begin
>>>>> construction for another two weeks - would be great to hear/see how it 
>>>>> goes
>>>>> for you!
>>>>>
>>>>> -a
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> On Wednesday, July 16, 2014 7:30:38 PM UTC+2, Joshua Slocum wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>> You've inspired me to build my own cordura/velcro yurt (H12). I'm
>>>>>> attempting to make it 100% reusable: no bi-filament tape.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> My plan is to make a semi-folding yurt, with hinges made out of
>>>>>> cordura and barge glue.
>>>>>> The seams on the dome and walls will be done with cordura + velcro,
>>>>>> similar to Alexander's design.
>>>>>> The tarp will be attached to the walls with velcro on the inside, to
>>>>>> keep dust and water out.
>>>>>> Tie-down straps will be made with cordura strips that attach to the
>>>>>> dome with velcro; the ends will have a sewn loop reinforced with nylon
>>>>>> webbing for standard tow-straps and playa staples to stake it down.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I'll try to post build pics/updates as I'm going along, in case
>>>>>> anyone is interested or wants to replicate it later.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Josh
>>>>>>
>>>>>> On Friday, March 7, 2014 10:25:32 AM UTC-5, Alexander Griffin wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> On Thursday, March 6, 2014 7:21:11 PM UTC-5, Robert Atkins wrote:
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> On Wednesday, February 19, 2014 8:58:05 PM UTC+1, Alexander Griffin
>>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>> > Here's pictures of WolfYurt 2.0 -- my H12 standard hexayurt made
>>>>>>>> with velcro and cordura
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> The way the roof cone "flaps" attach to the wall sections, aren't
>>>>>>>> you losing the structural integrity granted by having an unbroken 
>>>>>>>> tension
>>>>>>>> band going around the top of the walls? I thought this was important.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I don't see why there needs to be a tension band at the top of the
>>>>>>> walls ("eaves").  The walls are held together firmly in a circle by a
>>>>>>> combination of hinges and velcro seals. It is not going to expand apart 
>>>>>>> on
>>>>>>> its own any more than a fully taped yurt.   The roof cone itself is held
>>>>>>> together with the same tension points as any traditional taped yurt.  
>>>>>>> Can
>>>>>>> you explain to me why you think a constant ring of unbroken tape is 
>>>>>>> needed
>>>>>>> to keep a yurt erect?   I'm not saying you're wrong, I just don't see 
>>>>>>> why
>>>>>>> from an intuitive perspective or in practice.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> You could get this back by sticking your Velcro hook tape around
>>>>>>>> the top of the wall panels and the bottom of the roof panels, then 
>>>>>>>> having
>>>>>>>> the loops sewn to one long ribbon of cordura that went all the way 
>>>>>>>> around
>>>>>>>> (and then stuck to itself at the end/start with another little patch of
>>>>>>>> hook and loop on the outside.)
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I don't ever want velcro seals at the bottom of the roof cone.  If
>>>>>>> water runs down the roof it will get under the velcro seal and then into
>>>>>>> the yurt.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Also, your roof folds into six separate "chunks"?
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> No, two separate sections.   Each section is made of six triangles,
>>>>>>> which include a combination of standard and bifolded beveled hinges 
>>>>>>> using
>>>>>>> BiDi tape.  There are only two velcro seams attaching the roof cone
>>>>>>> sections to each other, as seen in blue in the photos.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> --Wolf
>>>>>>>
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