1.  The sides could be binding the inner rails when you are lowering the bed.  
However, what you are mostly seeing though is normal. Once your bed is lowered 
it's a normal procedure to measure all four corners to see if you are in the 
right place.  For cutting tapers, it will not matter much.  

2. The delrin bushing should not be tight at all. You might have to file them 
to fit the rails.  Also check for damaged or bent aluminum rails.  Also check 
for screws that hold the delrin bushings are not too long possibly hitting the 
aluminum rail.  Dynaglide is a unique product.  It's readily available from 
magnate.net.  It does help the machine move and I would highly recommend it.

3. Sounds like you have an eliminator chuck.  It sounds like it's out of 
balance and needs to be either cleaned or reinstalled properly.  There is an 
installation instruction that covers this but I can't seem to find it at the 
moment.  Maybe Roger Phebey can help with this one.  Your level of vibration 
seems really extreme! 

4. Hard to tell what you are describing.  Maybe others can see the problem.

The PS.  You can bolt your stock directly to the pilaster dogs but making a 
center core like you are talking about sounds good. Don't use a hub on both 
ends of your blocks. The hub will screw up your tailstock.  The plating on the 
hub is harder than the tailstock and it will wear a groove into the cone 
center.  See the bottom of this page for something that I called a bolt on 
puck. http://ornamentalmills.com/tips/live_tailstock/index.html  

There was also a good conversation about pilaster dogs that lead to me making 
some custom sizes for a couple of members here.  I also explored the idea of 
making multi-sided pilasters but I never took it any further. That thread is 
mostly here: 
http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills/browse_thread/thread/cb5de1853e9df8a2/db390ffd7875c83c?hl=en&lnk=gst&q=pilaster#db390ffd7875c83c

The other part is here: 
http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills/browse_thread/thread/41563a01f81a07fd/96b5b1fa4c3974ba?hl=en&lnk=gst&q=pilaster#96b5b1fa4c3974ba

-Tim



  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Brandon Khoury 
  To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, November 08, 2012 7:40 PM
  Subject: Legacy 1000ex setup questions.


  Hello everyone, I'm new to the group and would like to run a few issues by 
you and gather some ideas. I recently picked up a "new to me" legacy 1000ex. It 
was transported largely assembled and I was reluctant to completely disassmeble 
the machine and reassmble it. I did, however, take apart the sled and square it 
up. I have run through several test turnings, playing with tapers and twists. I 
understand the setup, but the tests have revealed a few issues:

  1) During a taper test, I noticed that when I lowered the tail end, the two 
rails did not remain parallel. A noticeable twist resulted. I needed a 4" drop 
of the tail end from the head. The left rail of the tail was set to 4" and the 
right rail was at least an inch off. My initial though was to make sure the 
drive screw, that lowers the tail, was centered on the cross rail and was 
secure. It was centered and did not move. So, I really have no idea how to 
resolve the issue.

  2) When I squared up the sled, I set the delrin slides right up against the 
rails on both the x and y axis rails to prevent the sled from lifting or 
twisting. It is very secure now with very little slop. However, there is a lot 
of friction when attempting to slide the sled by hand. I have not purchased any 
dynaglide yet. Is the dynaglide enough to free up the sled, or is there 
potentially a more serious issue with the setup? Is there an alternative to 
Dynaglide? I know it is difficult to make a recomemdation without seeing the 
setup, so I can get some pitures if needed.


  3)The router came equiped with the quick release locking nut. Its a great 
idea, but the router would vibrate violently. To the point that the plastic 
dust attachment broke off. I immediately removed the quick disconnect and set 
it aside. Has anyone else had this experience? Was there a solution to the 
problem?


  4) Below is a photo of one of my test turnings with a rope twist. I hope you 
can make it out, but if not, the issue is the presence of waves in the rope 
twist. I have several thoughts. They could be due to any of the following or a 
combination there of, im just not sure which:

  1) the bit is spinning too fast.

  2) the bit is spinning too slow.

  3) the rate of truning the spindle is to fast.

  4) the rate of turning the spindle is too slow.

  5) the bit was too loose in the chuck.


  I think that's it for now. Thanks in advance for your input and I look 
forward to bouncing ideas off you in the future.


  P.S. On that note, I have an idea about pilaster dogs but i haven't tested it 
out yet. It appears to me that the dogs available through Legacy require you to 
have scrap material that is screwed into the plate. My idea uses two scraps of 
4x4 posts that I had left over from my workbench project. Attach an indexing 
hub to the end of one 4x4x4 block, attach the waste material of the pilaster to 
the two blocks. Then inserts the indexing hub and center the tail block. It 
works in my head at least. The nice part is that you arent limited to the size 
of the dogs and you can also create a block with more than 4 sides. Just an 
idea. 



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