Hello everyone,
Bill I did not know about the rails. (you learn something new everyday.) thanks
for the tip bill.
Like Tim said the 1000ex. uses the "T"type of bushings/slides, the manual
states that the carriage is factory set, Do not touch. But in my case it was
just a bit off and caused friction,now it could have been bumped in shiping...?
but the reason why it was out of square isn't so important NOW, Just know
that,the loosening and re-tightening of the set screws was all that was needed
to fix my problem.
As a side note, I lived with this friction for 10 years, Doing a lot of clime
milling for the cleanse type of cuts, the friction may have been a friendly
bonus ;-p I am glad its gone now. But at that time, I felt pretty dumb for not
even thinking of checking those screws... But the manual stated "DO NOT adjust
the outside screws, these are set at the factory. the hold the router carriage
true and square. "
Sometimes you just need to think outside the box,(so to speak.) Ether that,or
just NOT read the Manual, but look at the pictures only.It might have saved my
a lot of trouble in the past. ;-) LOL!
I have to run. talk to you all latter.
C.A.G.
----- Original Message -----
From: Tim Krause
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2012 9:44 PM
Subject: Re: Legacy 1000ex setup questions.
Bill, Brandon's machine uses the t-style bushings, not the top hat style.
Still the orientation of the groove in the rails could be a small factor. He
said the bushing fit well and did not need to be filed to fit.
Curt could be onto something. The carriage is not self aligning like the
newer models are.
-Tim
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Bulkeley
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2012 4:37 AM
Subject: Re: Legacy 1000ex setup questions.
I do that too on each legacy mill i put together (all aluminum rail ones)
and now since the fire i have assembled at least 5 mills and every time i move
the saddle to the end loosen the rails and retighten them then do the same to
the other end and the difference in the saddle friction has been quite
noticeably better.. another thing i have noticed about aluminum rail is one
side is slightly smaller than the other so the top hat bushes slide easer in
one side than the other some times looking, one or more rails might be the
wrong side up which makes the saddle stiff to slide too
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: curt george
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2012 8:14 PM
Subject: Re: Legacy 1000ex setup questions.
Good morning Brandon
I ran into the same problems on my 1000 ,the carriage was very stiff and
hard to move.I must have removed my carriage a dozen times and could not find
the problem.( I even remover the felt on the bottom the carriage, thinking that
it was the problem, It wasn't. and didn't help at all.) The carrage is factory
set and the Manual stated that it should not be touched, So for years I just
lived with the stiffness of the unit, Yes Dyna-Glide did make the movement much
less but it still was stiffer than what I though it should be. I know that I've
already say this before, but for me the carriage was not quite correctly
aligned to the rails and was slightly pinching the rails, after Mike loosened
the factory set bolts on my carriage and re-tightened it down, my carriage
moved so much easer I was shocked.
I took my fishing scale and hooked on onto my carriage, before it took 15
lbs to slide my carriage, and now it just takes 4 lbs, What a difference it
made for me.
I wish you luck with your new toy, Play with it as much as you can,
That's the best way to learn.
I need to get To work now.
Have a good day.
C.A.G.
----- Original Message -----
From: Brandon Khoury
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Sent: Monday, November 12, 2012 8:55 PM
Subject: Re: Legacy 1000ex setup questions.
Thanks for the input guys. I want to answer a few questions and provide
a little more detailed information. First, I do have the owners manual, but it
wasn't really able to address my issue with the sled.
With regard to the table tilting issues, Tim you're right, it doesn't
have much effect for tapering. But, it was something that I noticed was out of
whack and I dont' want it to be an issue down the road. I'll keep working with
to see if I can correct the twist.
My main issue is the amount of friction with the sled/carriage. To be
clear, the bushings fit into the railings just fine. They do not need to be
filed down. However, when securing them in place along the Y rails, I put some
upward pressure on them so they hug closely to the rails. My intent was to
prevent any lifting of the carriage along the Y rails. Same with the bushings
along the X rails. I placed some inward directed prussure on the bushings to
make them hug closely against the inside of the rails to prevent twisting along
the X axis. There wasn't really any info in the manual directly describing how
the bushings should contact the rails, or if they are supposed to contact them
at all.
My eliminator chuck was definitely the problem. It's just going to set
to the side for the time being.
As for the waves in my rope twist, I think Curtis is correct. I
probably just got excited and attempted to take too much material in one pass.
I'm going to try to realign my spindle to see if light passes will take down
the waves.
Lastly. all I do is play. I'm lucky to have been able to add this
machine to my workshop, but it is only play for me.
Thanks again for the input. I'm sure I'll need more help with something
soon.
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