Nice job
There was one thing to point out for the sake of the group.
On the first picture, I see tear out. This can be avoided by starting
on the left with a climbing cut. Then cut, returning back to the left
with a nice even pressure cleaning cut. Just remember the climb cut
wants to take off running. Hold on tight and control the speed.
Setting the template is actually easier if you don't use a blade. I use
a 1/2" X6" steel rod. It allows me to touch the side of the lumber and
move the template to the bearing. It's very uniform, you don't have to
worry about if the blade is at the high side of the cutting edge or
not. Then when the template matches the contour of the stock, you swap
with the blade and setthe bearing follower position for the proper depth
of cut.
Great teaching pictures, thanks for the effort.
Mike
OK
On 1/25/2013 10:56 AM, Brandon Khoury wrote:
Since there is difference in opinions about the best course of action
to follow when cutting reeds on a tapered spindle, I decided, in the
interest of education, to test out both methods. The photo ending in
210 was done using a straigth edge template, the photo ending in 157
was done without the template and used the bearing to guide the
router. I know it is difficult to see, but if you look closely at 157,
you can see that in the center of the spindle, the bit did cut deeper
into the wood on the last cut. It did so because the bearing had to
rest against a surface that was already cut, and not the original full
thickness of the wood like all the other cuts. As you can see in 210,
all the cuts are uniform and the depth is even throughout. It was a
little bit of a pain the setup the template, but it is obvious that in
the interest of quality, it was worth the time.
Brandon
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