Here is a simple way to make your own stylus to exactly match any bit that you
have.
Clamp a block of hardwood to the table of your drill press.
Chuck up the bit that you want to use and slowly run it down into the wood the
full depth of the profile of the bit.
Back out the bit and replace it with a short piece of steel rod - 1/4 or 1/2"
to match the shank of your bit.
Lower the rod into the cavity that that you made with your bit and lock the
quill of your drill press
Pour melted lead- "wheel weights " into the cavity and let it harden
unlock the quill and back it out of the cavity -it will not stick
admire your matching stylus next to your bit.
Peter
-----Original Message-----
From: Okla Mike (Liltwisted) <legacym...@iglide.net>
To: legacy-ornamental-mills <legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com>
Sent: Fri, Sep 30, 2016 12:48 am
Subject: Re: Balls
Sure they should in a perfect world. I have only one stylus and many
sizes of bits, It's good to know what to do about it when they don't
match.
On 9/29/2016 7:38 PM, Cole Andrews wrote:
Should'nt the stylus and the bit be same size?
On Thursday, September 29, 2016, Richard Ellis <rchrd.ell...@gmail.com>
wrote:
Thanks Mike for the explanation.
Today I put a piece of ash in the chuck --same dia. template in the
same place as the forsythia and it came out a smaller size????,
maybe the wood pulls the cutter towards it.
The cutter is on the side nearest the leadscrew and the rotation of
the spindle is clockwise looking from the headstock.
I can make the spindle turn the other way , which way would you
recommend, using a up cutting two flute spiral cutter and top router
speed .
Cheers
Richard
On Wednesday, September 28, 2016 at 5:40:27 PM UTC+1,
LILtwisted wrote:
One thing I do when figuring out the path is to draw the
ball on a piece of paper, then draw the follower then draw
the bit diameter centered on the follower. If there is a
smaller bit than your follower, the follower's center will
be farther away from the radius path need to accomplish
the finish ball. You will need to make a smaller
template to be left with the correct diameter.
Lets say a 2" ball, a 1/2" bit and a 3/4" follower. the
difference of the bit and follower are 1/4" or 1/8" radius.
The radius of the ball is 1" but to correct we need to make
it 7/8" radius in order to accommodate the larger radius.
the reverse is true if the follower was only 1/4" in this
case you would have to add 1/8" to the template to get the
cutting side of the blade to swing on a 1" radius.
Bottom line here is to draw it out and prove your path with
a compass.
Mike OK
On 9/28/2016 11:10 AM, Richard Ellis wrote:
On Friday, September 23, 2016 at 6:02:35 PM UTC+1,
Richard Ellis wrote:
Hi All
I am at a loss to understand why, when I try to turn
balls from some pine to go with some kids skittles I
have made, they come out looking like rugby balls
instead of spherical shape.
The wood is 1 1/2 dia. and is held in a chuck,---
router cutter is 1/2 inch dia. the stylus on the end
of the router carriage is 1/8 inch dia
I use a metal washer /plate of the same dia. as the
wood as a pattern .
The ball as I have said before comes off oval in shape
it parts of very easily, I do the end of the wood
first then travel back to the washer to do the other
side of the ball, it just drops off into the sawdust,
which was a surprise
Do I need a larger plate washer or what do you
recommend I do is there a magic formula for
the diameters of the cutter plate and stylus
???????
Richard
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