Hi, Kevin, and list,
Use of the tool requires only the wire, the tool (and a wrench if
you're using the larger one, as it doesn't have a T handle, the forces
being beyond your hand strength) and a pair of diagonal cutters.
You make the clamp by tightening the wires, and you secure that
tightening by folding the wires over with the tool. Then, you remove
pressure on the wire ends (the clamp essentially is made, other than
dressing it) by loosening the tightening T to the end and pull the
tool back up the shaft. That leaves you with however much wire you've
pulled out by tightening it - from perhaps 1/2" to 2" on the smallest
tool. You then clip off the excess - about at the point where the
bend in the wire is from the foot.
As an added fillip, I angle the cut to make it such that when you
dress the ends, the angle is back toward the turning point. To finish
the clamp, you use the little point in the end of the dykes to push
the cut end into the space between the wires, and down onto whatever
it is you've put the clamp around. The result (even without my little
touch) is a snagless clamp - no points to catch on when you've got
your arm down the hole next to it. Run your finger toward the cut off
ends - you'll feel nothing if you've done it right, let alone have
something to catch on when you're working in close quarters.
So, that's how you finish it. To get it off, take the same dykes and
cut it anywhere. The most secure point to cut (because it may be
imbedded into whatever you've clamped) is the point between the
foldovers - the part which is in the nose of the tool when you make
the clamp - because it's slightly raised due to the wire under it, but
then you'll have to work it a bit, as you've essentially still got two
clamped wires. I usually just cut it on the two wires, wherever I can
get my dykes to engage. In a hose, there's usually enough give to get
me to the wire. I can usually also get to the foldover wires with the
dykes, and just bend them back. It's the 180* turn they do which
provides the security of remaining secure, and if you undo that, it's
easy to then get a hold on the part which used to be in the nose of
the tool and simply pull the wire off - which makes for a neater
debris pattern :{))
These tools exert a huge amount of pressure, and it's possible to
break the wire if you overdo it. However, that's of no consequence,
as you just do it again. For perspective, when I was doing the
outboard motor mounts, that very heavy wire broke on a couple of the
clamps I was making. No biggie, of course, you just start over and be
careful not to use quite as much force.
Lubrication of the tool is important, as galling is possible due to
the forces you apply. Chap stick is a good lube, as it's hard
petroleum jelly...
Oh, and I wouldn't use a dremel. Not only is it a nuisance, but I
really like not cutting anything I'm going to clamp again :{)) Your
dexterity with the tool may be better than mine, but with my ham
hands, I'd likely score (or worse) whatever I was removing the clamp
from :{))
HTH
L8R
Skip
Morgan 461 #2
SV Flying Pig KI4MPC
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