Regarding the screws… I think I found something that will work: https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Machine-Phillips-Stainless-Fasteners/dp/B07TDDY5M1/ref=sr_1_17?dchild=1&keywords=m3+phillips+truss&qid=1608512236&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011&rnid=2470954011&rps=1&sr=8-17
M3x8mm Phillips Truss Head screws. They are not the flanged button head screws like the original, but the only sources for those I have managed to find are in China (or ridiculously priced and still probably coming from China). Regular pan heads will not work unless you use a washer. They may tighten down, but you risk cracking the case. You need the wider head. These are 7mm across. The original flanged heads are 7.5mm These should work for the case and most of the screws on the inside as well. Just thought I would pass this along. Scott M. From: Scott McDonnell Sent: Saturday, December 19, 2020 1:47 PM To: m...@bitchin100.com Subject: Re: [M100] Model 100 Repair - Keyboard not responding,LCD missing a column Doubtful. Remember this was made in Japan by Kyocera originally. So most likely metric screws. Ahh yes, service manual calls out M3x8 machine screws! I have those! Scott From: Michael Kohne Sent: Saturday, December 19, 2020 1:39 PM To: m...@bitchin100.com Subject: Re: [M100] Model 100 Repair - Keyboard not responding,LCD missing a column I believe that the screws on the back are #4-48, which is not the most common thing in the world (most #4 screws are 40 TPI). If anyone knows where to get a Phillips head screw in that size, I'd be grateful, as so far I've only found socket-head screws. On Sat, Dec 19, 2020 at 12:52 PM Scott McDonnell <mcdonnell.j...@comcast.net> wrote: Tada!! Well, it turned out that 5 traces were broken. The 4 I didn’t see were broken right at the ring, so 3 of them were easy to fix with just scratching back the trace a bit and solder bridging. I did need to add one more jumper wire. So two wire jumpers and the rest looks mostly normal. Obviously, I installed a socket in the main RAM slot. And well, now this non-working M100 is working! I looked over the caps and the NiCad battery. They are all aftermarket, so previous owner did all this updating (probably thinking that was why it wasn’t working.) I also took the opportunity to burn a Y2K patched ROM that I did on a 27C256. Still left to do: Sort out the LCD. I think I just need to add some pressure to the LCD. Run a diagnostic program to determine which one of the RAM modules is bad. It reports the 29+K bytes free with all modules in there, but obviously the original RAM module at least is bad. Maybe I will buy aftermarket modules if someone would be kind enough to point me to a place to buy. I need to replace some screws. It had none of the back cover screws. Hopefully the service manual will tell me the screw size I need. Cast and mold (or find someone selling one) a new battery door. This one was missing the battery door. (Anyone have a spare they would be willing to part with?) I was using the “good M100” screen and keyboard for troubleshooting: From: Josh Malone Sent: Thursday, December 17, 2020 2:48 PM To: m...@bitchin100.com Subject: Re: [M100] Model 100 Repair - Keyboard not responding,LCD missing a column On Thu, Dec 17, 2020 at 2:08 PM mcdonnell.junk <mcdonnell.j...@comcast.net> wrote: > > And, well, I *did* break a trace and possibly pulled out a barrel. Lol. That > was likely my impatience and not the tool. I did test the force requir3d to > pop the chip out before prying on it and it came out easy, so I thought all > was good. Yeah - impatience got me when I was working in my ZX Spectrum +2 a couple months ago. Lifted 2 pads when removing a PLA because I was hungry and wanted to finish the job before dinner. D'oh! -Josh -- Michael Kohne mhko...@kohne.org Anything real you do that's important will be scary. Having kids. Getting married. Donating a kidney. Writing a book. Do it anyway. - Neil Gaiman
