That's why you disconnect the positive lead first, and reconnect it last.
I've done this countless times on all vehicles, old and modern (I help out a
mechanic friend of mine when it comes to any electrical work, as well as
nitrous installs <grin>) without a problem.
As for hearing a relay, it wouldn't be from your fuel pump unless you had
the ignition key to ON (or otherwise known as IGNITION). More than likely,
the relay would be from your alarm's immobilisation relay clicking on and
off, or even the battery backup relay that some alarms have.
As for the relay coil being the cause thanks to Lenz's law, while that is a
plausible idea, a good design always has a smoothing diode across the relay
coil to ensure that no back-EMF is passed on to any sensitive devices.
Adios,
LarZ
--------------- TAMA - The Strongest Name in Drums ---------------
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf
Of J. Coon
Sent: Tuesday, 5 October 1999 13:43
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: MD: DC surges, a warning
Yesterday I cleaned the battery posts for my car. Took each one off and
wire brushed inside the clamp and the battery post itself. I
reconnected the battery and everything seemed ok. That is until I went
to set the alarm. It doesn't work any more and it is getting power.
Apparently, removing the battery post and reconnecting it caused a
voltage spike that was large enough to wipe out the alarm system. When
I was working on it I could hear a relay click, probably from the fuel
pump. So, making and breaking the DC supply caused a spike from the
collapsing magnetic field around the relay core.
-----------------------------------------------------------------
To stop getting this list send a message containing just the word
"unsubscribe" to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
