James,

Most of the manuals are reasonably useful with changing a head gasket but
what most of the manuals don't cover is a few preliminary steps to make
changing a head gasket a lot easier to get everything back together right,
especially the timings. I call it preparation and it's always a good idea
IMHO.

1. Remove the plugs and turn the engine over (by hand) until you are on TDC
compression stroke on #1 i.e. (timing indicator on crank pulley indicates 0
and both valves on #1 pointing upwards) and dismantle the engine in that
position.

2. Check that the dizzy rotor is pointing where it should be (L16/L18 is
towards the radiator, I'm not sure on L20B) so you know if the drive shaft
was put in right or 180 degrees out the last time someone had the engine
apart. Failure to do this results in many a "help" post to this list when
the engine spits out flames on start-up.

3. Note which hole the cam dowel pin is located in the timing wheel, also
where the "V" in the wheel is in relation to the indent on the thrust
plate - refer to the manual on the method to do this. If the "V" is to the
left of the indent (i.e. valve timing retarded), then you will re-fit the
cam with more advance i.e. in a higher number until it's dead centre of the
indent or slightly to the right. If it's in #3 already and it's still
retarded then a new chain, guides and adjuster is required, as well as
timing cover, oil pump to t/cover, and (optional) water pump to t/cover
gaskets.

4. if the timing cover isn't already off or not coming off the engine, make
up the little chock (specs are in the manual) to keep the adjuster in place,
otherwise you'll need the additional gaskets shown in point 3.

Tools you'll need: (most of them anyway)

10mm/12mm/14mm spanners (I use dwarf rings & sockets mainly, call me fussy
but I hate burring bolts with open ended spanners with a passion)
19mm socket or ring to remove cam timing wheel (I think that bolt is 19mm
but it could be 22mm and you need a 22mm for the sump plug)
oil filter remover
3" & 6" extension bars and optional ratchet to suite
plug spanner
14mm/17mm open end spanners (mainly for adjusting rockers)
feeler gauges
10mm allen drive about 40mm long (used to undo head bolts)
screw drivers (both blade & phillips)
tension wrench


Parts:
VRS or Head set (I think a head set doesn't contain valve guide seals)
Sealant (eg Blue RTV)
Oil & filter (optional, you can change the oil after 200k's or so if it was
good before you started i.e. no water in it)
Coolant

That's about all I could think off just now, prolly forgot something, I hope
it isn't anything major.

regards
Terry


-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of James Morrison
Sent: Saturday, 3 August 2002 4:06 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: head gasket change


is there anywhere i can get a good detailed step by step walk thru of a
gasket change for a datto?
i have the manual, thats not bad but some extra would be good
James

--- "mark krawczuk" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>you will need a vrs set, and gasket goo.
>if your game u can use a set square and feeler gauges.
>
> mark k
>----- Original Message -----
>Wrom: HJEXXIMQZUIVOTQNQEMSFDULHPQQWOYIYZUNNYC
>To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Sent: Friday, August 02, 2002 9:24 PM
>Subject: head gasket change
>
>
>>
>> hey all, im changing my second head gasket, however this one is for
>someone else and i want to do it 100% properly (not like mine, guess as you
>go). i basically just need a list of all the stuff i'll need and a
>good/cheap place in melbourne to get the head checked to see if it is
>warped. its an L20 with 4-2-1 extractors, twin su's and some head work i
>think.
>>
>> Cheers
>> James
>>
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