Having done it twice this weekend, I'm very familiar with all this. You've got it right Terry, the Cam Sprocket bolt is a 19mm.
When setting the engine to TDC on #1 cylinder, I would have said "both CAM LOBES" pointing up (ie valves shut on firing stroke). and, Looking down the dizzy drive hole, the dizzy drive should line up at 11.25 (as per the clock), looking from the LHS, with the larger "half moon" on the right. The rotor should point toward the lower left quadrant, approx. in a line with the dizzy cap's retaining clips. This is the setting you need to get if you pull off the oil pump and its drive (which is also the dizzy drive). ----- Original Message ----- From: "Terry Rudd" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Saturday, 3 August 2002 13:37 PM Subject: RE: head gasket change > James, > > Most of the manuals are reasonably useful with changing a head gasket but > what most of the manuals don't cover is a few preliminary steps to make > changing a head gasket a lot easier to get everything back together right, > especially the timings. I call it preparation and it's always a good idea > IMHO. > > 1. Remove the plugs and turn the engine over (by hand) until you are on TDC > compression stroke on #1 i.e. (timing indicator on crank pulley indicates 0 > and both valves on #1 pointing upwards) and dismantle the engine in that > position. > > 2. Check that the dizzy rotor is pointing where it should be (L16/L18 is > towards the radiator, I'm not sure on L20B) so you know if the drive shaft > was put in right or 180 degrees out the last time someone had the engine > apart. Failure to do this results in many a "help" post to this list when > the engine spits out flames on start-up. > > 3. Note which hole the cam dowel pin is located in the timing wheel, also > where the "V" in the wheel is in relation to the indent on the thrust > plate - refer to the manual on the method to do this. If the "V" is to the > left of the indent (i.e. valve timing retarded), then you will re-fit the > cam with more advance i.e. in a higher number until it's dead centre of the > indent or slightly to the right. If it's in #3 already and it's still > retarded then a new chain, guides and adjuster is required, as well as > timing cover, oil pump to t/cover, and (optional) water pump to t/cover > gaskets. > > 4. if the timing cover isn't already off or not coming off the engine, make > up the little chock (specs are in the manual) to keep the adjuster in place, > otherwise you'll need the additional gaskets shown in point 3. > > Tools you'll need: (most of them anyway) > > 10mm/12mm/14mm spanners (I use dwarf rings & sockets mainly, call me fussy > but I hate burring bolts with open ended spanners with a passion) > 19mm socket or ring to remove cam timing wheel (I think that bolt is 19mm > but it could be 22mm and you need a 22mm for the sump plug) > oil filter remover > 3" & 6" extension bars and optional ratchet to suite > plug spanner > 14mm/17mm open end spanners (mainly for adjusting rockers) > feeler gauges > 10mm allen drive about 40mm long (used to undo head bolts) > screw drivers (both blade & phillips) > tension wrench > > > Parts: > VRS or Head set (I think a head set doesn't contain valve guide seals) > Sealant (eg Blue RTV) > Oil & filter (optional, you can change the oil after 200k's or so if it was > good before you started i.e. no water in it) > Coolant > > That's about all I could think off just now, prolly forgot something, I hope > it isn't anything major. > > regards > Terry > > > -----Original Message----- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of James Morrison > Sent: Saturday, 3 August 2002 4:06 AM > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Subject: Re: head gasket change > > > is there anywhere i can get a good detailed step by step walk thru of a > gasket change for a datto? > i have the manual, thats not bad but some extra would be good > James > > --- "mark krawczuk" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > >you will need a vrs set, and gasket goo. > >if your game u can use a set square and feeler gauges. > > > > mark k > >----- Original Message ----- > >Wrom: HJEXXIMQZUIVOTQNQEMSFDULHPQQWOYIYZUNNYC > >To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >Sent: Friday, August 02, 2002 9:24 PM > >Subject: head gasket change > > > > > >> > >> hey all, im changing my second head gasket, however this one is for > >someone else and i want to do it 100% properly (not like mine, guess as you > >go). i basically just need a list of all the stuff i'll need and a > >good/cheap place in melbourne to get the head checked to see if it is > >warped. its an L20 with 4-2-1 extractors, twin su's and some head work i > >think. > >> > >> Cheers > >> James > >> > >> _____________________________________________________________ > >> Get Your free Ozdat Email Account > >> ---> http://www.ozdat.com > >> > >> _____________________________________________________________ > >> Promote your group and strengthen ties to your members with > >[EMAIL PROTECTED] by Everyone.net http://www.everyone.net/?btn=tag > >> > > > > _____________________________________________________________ > Get Your free Ozdat Email Account > ---> http://www.ozdat.com > > _____________________________________________________________ > Promote your group and strengthen ties to your members with > [EMAIL PROTECTED] by Everyone.net http://www.everyone.net/?btn=tag > > > --membersozdat------------------------------------------------------- OZDAT Mailing List Please Note:- Send (un)subscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Send submissions to [EMAIL PROTECTED] No unauthorised redistribution of this email http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/index.htm http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/listindex.html http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]/ ---------------------------------------------------------------------
