safely discharge into the atmosphere and refill with $7 R134a cans
from Autozone. The newer stuff has oils that don't eat the seals in
old cars. That was the big stink with converting R12 cars to R134 --
you had to redo all the seals. shops charged a few hundred bucks for
that. I have a receipt showing the PO of my old 83 300D paid $1300 to
have someone retrofit the system. Now all you have to do is buy a
$40 kit from Autozone and somehow evacuate the old system. (or maybe
just discharge it)
the pros use nitrogen to pressure test AC systems. - that according to
my brother, an air conditioning professional.
of course he works on ammonia systems with supply lines the size of
radiator hoses.
-Sealover
On Thursday, July 7, 2005, at 08:17 PM, Tom Hargrave wrote:
There is nothing that will mix & will work as a refrigerant.
Based on your tests, I'd say that your friend's system is low. There is
no way of knowing how fast R12 will leak out without dumping a can in.
One good sign is that fact that he has some refrigerant in his system.
Has his AC been down for a while? More than a month? If so than he does
not have a major leak and it's safe to dump in a can. If he had a major
leak then you would not have any charge left by now.
Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
256-656-1924
www.kegkits.com
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Dave M.
Sent: Monday, July 04, 2005 11:19 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [MBZ] What to use as test refrigerant on R-12 system
Hi all,
My friend has a W124 with no A/C. I pressed the schrader valve and
there is still some pressure in the system, so it's not empty. I
shorted the low pressure switch and the compressor runs, and there are
bubbles (or something) visible in the sight glass. I did not have my
manifold gauges with me to test pressures. I assume the system is low
on R-12 at the moment. I hate to feed it precious R-12 just to have it
leak out. I don't have a vacuum pump, so I really don't want to open
the system. Is there anything I can feed in that will be compatible
with R-12 (and cheap1), or am I stuck either taking the gamble (add
R-12) or having to discharge, vacuum, and re-fill with a mineral-oil
compatible replacement like Duracool, AutoFrost, or good 'ol R-12?
He's on a tight (read: zero) budget but sure would like some cool air
if possible. Suggestions welcome...
:-)
--
Dave M.
Boise, ID
1994 E500 - 94kmi (Q-ship)
1987 300D - 256kmi (Sportline)
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