Thanks Peter, your instructions make it sound pretty straight forward.  I'll
copy them and have them close by when I work on the brakes.

Thanks again for your help.

Ed
300E

2009/5/9 Peter Frederick <psf...@earthlink.net>

> W124 brakes are easy -- jack up, remove wheel, remove one bolt on the
> sliding caliper, life the "loose" half up and away on the other slider bolt
> (which stays in) and lift out the pads.  Push single piston back in, flush
> fluid if you want, put new pads in place, lower caliper half, install new
> (included) bolt and you're done.
>
> Things to watch for:
>
> You need a wrench to hold the pin the small bolt goes into.  14mm I think.
>  Otherwise you will turn it forever and it won't come loose.
>
> Make sure the bellows on the pins are good, and that there is no play in
> the sliding part.  Major annoyances if there are, but you can just buy the
> pin and bushing kit and replace them.  Replace the bellows if torn.
>
> Watch that the little "ear" springs on the top of the pads stay under the
> sliding caliper, and don't stick up through the slot.  Major rattles,
> squeals, and hassle, and they DO pop up where they don't belong.
>
> Don't break the little plastic cover for the sensor wire, you really need
> to compress the coiled section and install it under the cover.  If it's
> pulled out, it can rub through and give false worn brake indicator
> illumination.
>
> You must remove the calipers to replace the rotors, but they are usually
> fairly easy -- just take out the small hex socket screw and they SHOULD come
> off.  Usually have to "help" them off a bit as they stick.  Put a THIN
> coating of anti-seize on the face of the hub after you clean off all the old
> rust.  Rotors must have the coxmoline removed -- brake parts cleaner works
> great.
>
> You MUST roughen up the new rotors -- they are turned and you need to sand
> them with coarse paper enough to cross-hatch the spiral left -- otherwise
> they moan and groan under light pressure essentially forever.  This can be
> done by hand, but a flap sander works better.
>
> Change the brake fluid if you don't know how long it's been.
>
> Peter
>
> On May 9, 2009, at 6:26 PM, E M wrote:
>
>  Thanks Alex.  This is my first brake job on this car.  I had a mechanic
>> check them last Fall and he said should be fine for a year, but I bought
>> new
>> rotors, pads and sensors, well, one sensor, lol, and will just change it
>> all.  I tend to pull wheels a couple of times a year too, just to have a
>> look at things.
>>
>> Any tips or things to watch for when taking it all apart ??
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> Ed
>> 300E
>>
>> 2009/5/9 Alex Chamberlain <apchamberl...@gmail.com>
>>
>>  There's no harm in leaving the wear sensors off if you want to change
>>> the pads before you get the other one from Rusty, Ed.  I kind of
>>> figure they are not worth the bother, since I look at the pads twice a
>>> year anyway (at least) when swapping winter/summer wheels.
>>>
>>> Alex
>>>
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