Hi Ed -- Forgot to mention - along with the replacement bolts you also get 2 new brake pad sensors. All for ~$52+ S&H.

:-)  Have fun -
LarryT

https://www.nrahq.org/nrabonus/accept-membership.asp

Free 1 year NRA membership to anyone interested!

----- Original Message ----- From: "E M" <pokieba...@gmail.com>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 09, 2009 9:51 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 124 pad wear sensors (was: Re: cloudy headlight lenses)


Thanks Peter, your instructions make it sound pretty straight forward. I'll
copy them and have them close by when I work on the brakes.

Thanks again for your help.

Ed
300E

2009/5/9 Peter Frederick <psf...@earthlink.net>

W124 brakes are easy -- jack up, remove wheel, remove one bolt on the
sliding caliper, life the "loose" half up and away on the other slider bolt (which stays in) and lift out the pads. Push single piston back in, flush
fluid if you want, put new pads in place, lower caliper half, install new
(included) bolt and you're done.

Things to watch for:

You need a wrench to hold the pin the small bolt goes into. 14mm I think.
 Otherwise you will turn it forever and it won't come loose.

Make sure the bellows on the pins are good, and that there is no play in
the sliding part. Major annoyances if there are, but you can just buy the
pin and bushing kit and replace them.  Replace the bellows if torn.

Watch that the little "ear" springs on the top of the pads stay under the
sliding caliper, and don't stick up through the slot.  Major rattles,
squeals, and hassle, and they DO pop up where they don't belong.

Don't break the little plastic cover for the sensor wire, you really need
to compress the coiled section and install it under the cover.  If it's
pulled out, it can rub through and give false worn brake indicator
illumination.

You must remove the calipers to replace the rotors, but they are usually
fairly easy -- just take out the small hex socket screw and they SHOULD come
off.  Usually have to "help" them off a bit as they stick.  Put a THIN
coating of anti-seize on the face of the hub after you clean off all the old rust. Rotors must have the coxmoline removed -- brake parts cleaner works
great.

You MUST roughen up the new rotors -- they are turned and you need to sand
them with coarse paper enough to cross-hatch the spiral left -- otherwise
they moan and groan under light pressure essentially forever. This can be
done by hand, but a flap sander works better.

Change the brake fluid if you don't know how long it's been.

Peter

On May 9, 2009, at 6:26 PM, E M wrote:

 Thanks Alex.  This is my first brake job on this car.  I had a mechanic
check them last Fall and he said should be fine for a year, but I bought
new
rotors, pads and sensors, well, one sensor, lol, and will just change it
all.  I tend to pull wheels a couple of times a year too, just to have a
look at things.

Any tips or things to watch for when taking it all apart ??

Thanks

Ed
300E

2009/5/9 Alex Chamberlain <apchamberl...@gmail.com>

 There's no harm in leaving the wear sensors off if you want to change
the pads before you get the other one from Rusty, Ed.  I kind of
figure they are not worth the bother, since I look at the pads twice a
year anyway (at least) when swapping winter/summer wheels.

Alex

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