I vote for a chain issue. As Craig said, pull the chain out
completely, then see what happens.
A long time ago, I was working on an OM621 (basically similar to
OM615-616) and dropped the center link of the master link when it
slipped. The link dropped down in the chain cavity. I tried fishing
around with a magnet, but had no luck. SO I hoped for the best, that
it settled in the oil pan, and turned the engine over by hand. No
luck. It would stick tight. Same if I turned it backwards.
I had to pull the engine. Link was stuck in the crank sprocket. The
crank sprocket was badly worn. I had to buy a new sprocket and a new
master link. On the OM621, the pan can only be pulled with the
engine out of the car.
At 07:49 PM 8/1/2009, you wrote:
So today I went to the neighbors' again and we had
another surgery session on the former blackberry patch
also known as the $100 220D. (Some kid had taken off the
head, and even removed the gallery plugs.) We've been
slowly reassembling the thing to see if it's any good,
spending as little as humanly possible until we can
determine this crucial detail. This is to be the kid's
car, and Fall is coming fast.
Anyway, today the chain got hooked back up. It'd been
loose in the vault, tie-wrapped together but not very
well. We got it together and the engine turning again,
but the engine will only turn about 180 degrees back and
forth before it seems to hit something _very_ solid. When
'clunked' clockwise it wedges, and has to be BFH'd back
loose with a piece of pipe on one of the balancer's notches,
since otherwise it'll just unscrew the big bolt due to the
strength of the wedging.
We can't see anything wrong, and have the vacuum pump and
the lower oil pan off for visibility. The cam followers
are not yet in, so all the valves are fully retracted.
All four holes suck and blow when you rock the engine
back and forth. No thrown rods that we can see.
Is this likely to be a chain kink? Or something much worse?
Anybody BTDT? Suggestions?
-- Jim
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Loren Faeth
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