Sounds like a 2x4 in the oil pan....

We looked in there, as best one can through the
small (front) pan's hole.  Nothing obviously wrong.

Any bolts down near the crank that may have been replace with
ones that are too long?

Looks OK, and the pan bolts look long-undisturbed.

What about flywheel clutch/torque converter/transmission?

Could be, we've not looked at that end yet.

Busted off prechamber tip on top of a piston? Busted off prechamber ball on top of a piston?

No, we just put that head (back) on ourselves a couple of weeks ago.
Besides, if that was the blocker you'd get nearly 360 degrees of
rotation out of the engine.  (Unless you can support the notion
of two differently-phased pistons having the same problems at home.)

I vote for a chain issue. As Craig said, pull the chain out completely, then see what happens.

We might have to.  It's just that then we've for sure
bought into the joy of re-timing the IP.  We were hoping
to avoid that little walk in the park, if at all possible.

I'm not sure how we can actually remove the chain, though,
given that the engine doesn't rotate.

A long time ago, I was working on an OM621 (basically similar to OM615-616) and dropped the center link of the master link when it slipped. The link dropped down in the chain cavity. I tried fishing around with a magnet, but had no luck. SO I hoped for the best, that it settled in the oil pan, and turned the engine over by hand. No luck. It would stick tight. Same if I turned it backwards.

Oops.

I had to pull the engine. Link was stuck in the crank sprocket. The crank sprocket was badly worn. I had to buy a new sprocket and a new master link. On the OM621, the pan can only be pulled with the engine out of the car.

We've been starting to figure out means of pulling the
engine.  (I think some 2x6's endwise across the rafters
will support my chain hoist.  We've got three bodies, so
removing the hood and general manhandling are well covered.)

-- Jim



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