Well, Gump went to the car Dr. this morning. Had oldest boy fetch me
at 7:10am at the shop and took him to school. Left the key in the box.
Got home around 7:55, and settled down to breakfast and the paper. A
bit after 8am call comes in. Shop can not figure out how to start
her. Explain the process to the front desk and she passes me to the
lead mechanic. He knows full well how to start an old diesel, just
can not figure out how to get Gump lit off. Told him to PULL real
hard after he gets glow. Says he did but she will not crank. PULL
REAL HARD, dude. Tells me that just ain't right but he will give it a
go.
Never did get a call back. Guess he felt too much the pussy for
calling in the first place.
clay
On Sep 13, 2009, at 2:53 PM, OK Don wrote:
To corraborate Mitch's excellent suggestions - all the hard to start
issues
i've had with 615, 616, and 617 engines have been related to one of
the
following: air in a fuel line, bad glow plugs, or too tight valves
(other
than too cold with the wrong oil).
On Sun, Sep 13, 2009 at 3:41 PM, Mitch Haley <m...@voyager.net> wrote:
Ether isn't good. Ether in a glow plug engine is very bad.
In order to start, you need fuel, compression, and heat.
Let's start with heat. The simplest thing to do is to glow for 30
seconds
instead of cranking as soon as the light goes out.
You can unplug the glow plug harness from the glow plug relay, and
jumper
the pins in the connector on the plug harness to test the plugs
individually. You can do this crudely with an ohmmeter, or better
yet, jump
an ammeter between the positive battery terminal and a wire to a
glow plug.
The plug should draw around 20A initially and then taper down to
about 10A
after a few seconds. If you do that with all five, you'll see which
one(s)
don't act right.
If the plugs are all good, plug the connector back into the relay,
turn the
key on, and check for voltage at a glow plug.
Compression: one thing commonly overlooked is valve adjustment. If
your
valves are tight, it's not going to want to start when cold. While
you've
got the valve cover off, slowly turn the engine until the timing
marks line
up on the front cam tower and read the crank position on the crank
damper.
If the crank is five degrees ahead of the cam, you need a new cam
chain.
If the above check out OK, post a follow-up and we'll get into fuel
issues,
starting with the hand primer pump.
Mitch.
--
OK Don
Pair of W124 300D 2.5 Turbos
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