Excellent  -  I love to hear when things go well!

Larry
91 300D

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accept V/MC/AE/Dis?  We have the
best rates & 0% Interest Business loans.
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--------------------------------------------------
From: "OK Don" <okd...@gmail.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 14, 2009 9:47 PM
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
Subject: Re: [MBZ] W124 Motor Mounts & Related Problems

I've replaced the DVs on three engines now - two 603s and one 602. I removed enough to get plenty of room, and know that the intake manifold ws off of at
least one, but don't remember about the other two. Used the special socket
and a standard Sears clicking TW - no problems with any of them. Might have
been blind luck, but following the procedure worked great.

On Wed, Oct 14, 2009 at 9:00 AM, LarryT <l02tur...@comcast.net> wrote:

Thx Max -
I looked at the procedure in the Tech Data book and wonder why the last torque it says 30Nm + 5Nm - I want to be absolutely sure I do this right - I
wonder why they didn't just say 35Nm's?

  As far as torque wrenches - I have a 3/8" click type as well as a 1/4"
drive beam bar (??) type for inch #s.  But I'll take your advice and make
sure one or the other will work.

  As far as doing one DV at a time, then starting the engine to test for
noises - on my 602-962 engine it looks like I'll need to remove the intake air manifold that comes across the engine from the turbo to the intake. This is over the IP so will need to come off. It's not a he deal I suppose but
will make for  a longer time needed.

  If proper torqueing will prevent warping, I would think I can do the 3
step procedure.  I've torqued a lot of heads using a multi-stage method
followed by a 45 degree movement.   Is there something especially tough
about properly torquing the DV's?

  Not being argumentative - just trying to understand --

Thanks again for the help -

Larry
91 300D
Does your business accept or need to
accept V/MC/AE/Dis?  We have the
best rates & 0% Interest Business loans.
Visit: http://www.merchantreferralsolutions.com/A365706

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC,53310" <
meade.m.dil...@navy.mil>
Sent: Wednesday, October 14, 2009 9:03 AM

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
Subject: Re: [MBZ] W124 Motor Mounts & Related Problems

Larry,

"Fix it": loosen and repeat the three step torque procedure.

Take a close look at the clearances above the IP, to make sure you can
fit a torque wrench in there.  On my OM603 the intake manifold makes it
a very tight fit.  A smaller torque wrench may be required.

Max

-----Original Message-----
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of LarryT
Sent: Wednesday, October 14, 2009 8:54 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] W124 Motor Mounts & Related Problems

Hi Max --
Thanks *very* much for your experienced suggestions!

As far as your comment <<Obviously there are other causes for rough idle
that also need to be investigated (fuel filters, air leaks, bad
injectors, carbon in pre-chambers, valve adjustment on older engines,
EDS problems on newer engines, compression, etc.)>> That's why I took it
to the dealer -  while my fuel filters are new, cannot find any air
leaks, have treated it for carbon in the pre-chambers (along with 2
years of 100 mi RT at 67-70mph) I can't be sure of the other
possibilities.  Obviously, I'm hoping the MB Technician knew what he was
doing.

I will replace the springs and make sure all is clean - you're right
about the springs - seems like false economy not to replace them while
you're in there.

But I have a question about the possibility of warping the IP body when
torqing the DVs - you said it's necessary to "Fix it".  How would I do
that?
Maybe I'd be better off letting the dealer do it??    I cringe at the
thought of damaging the IP!!

I'm off to get springs and the removal tool from Rusty -

Thx agn - It's all *very* helpful!!   Even if this doesn't fix the
rocking
completely, it appears it's something that needs to be done.



LarryT
91 300D

Does your business accept or need to
accept V/MC/AE/Dis?  We have the
best rates & 0% Interest Business loans.
Visit: http://www.merchantreferralsolutions.com/A365706

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC,53310"
<meade.m.dil...@navy.mil>
Sent: Wednesday, October 14, 2009 7:43 AM
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
Subject: Re: [MBZ] W124 Motor Mounts & Related Problems

Harry,

Rough idle can be caused by internal leak at copper washer OR by worn
elements inside the delivery valve.  I suspect that you really have to


know what you are looking for to identify worn elements inside the DV;


new DV are pricey, but for the novice a strategy may be to purchase
one and use it for comparison purposes?  Obviously there are other
causes for rough idle that also need to be investigated (fuel filters,


air leaks, bad injectors, carbon in pre-chambers, valve adjustment on
older engines, EDS problems on newer engines, compression, etc.)

Max

-----Original Message-----
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of harry watkins
Sent: Wednesday, October 14, 2009 1:29 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] W124 Motor Mounts & Related Problems

Larry wrote:

  Additionally, they tell me the Injector Seals are leaking - not
internal seals but the O-Ring and copper washer that fits inside the
line where it exits the IP - so the IP doesn't need to be replaced -
only the metal injector lines need to come off and a fitting inside
the IP removed from each injector exit port.  I plan to do it myself
and from what little I've seen it doesn't look too bad.  Don't know
how I would have found these seals were bad!

  They tell me the seals leak internally & cause the problem I
described - rough idle at idle after fully warmed up.


Boy, this messes with my mind.  How can one determine that a delivery
valve has an internal leak?  I could understand if they had looked at
the parts and found some wear but that would have required a tear

down.

IMHO, if you go in there for any reason, you should replace the
o-rings, seals and springs, perform the three step torque procedure
and hope for the best.

Anyone know how they do that?

Thanks
Harry


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--
OK Don
CONSERVATIVE, n.  A statesman who is enamored of existing evils, as
distinguished from the Liberal, who wishes to replace them with
others.
The Devil's Dictionary
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