The two dimples have raised edges which deform the seal, so the edges need to 
be taken down.

What anerobic sealant do you recommend?  Last time I put together a VW air 
cooled engine, I used Permetex Aviation gasket maker (I think, was over twenty 
years ago).

Max

Michael Canfield <slozuk...@gmail.com> wrote:

>Hi Max,
>Use your choice of sealants.  I would put just enough to fill the holes
>and install the seal.  It is not going to get out of there and get into
>the
>engine.
>Really, looking at the picture it does not look like there is a passage
>caused by the damage and it should not cause a leak unless it deforms
>the
>seal.  Make sure there are no high spots and you should be good. 
>Sealer
>will just add piece of mind.
>On ACVW's we use aenerobic(sp?) sealant to install what is called a
>sand
>seal. They use a slinger type deal to keep the oil in a stock engine
>that
>will allow dirt and sand into the engine in harsh conditions. 
>Therefore,
>they make specially machined crank pulleys that allow you to basically
>glue
>an aluminum ring that houses a traditional rubber oil seal into the end
>of
>the case.  Aenerobic sealant is all that is used to hold it in place
>with a
>light press fit.  Much thinner than silicone and dries hard but yet
>flexible
>enough to handle expansion of dissimilar metals.  There are no case
>gaskets
>on a bug, only the sealant.  So, even if the damage makes the seal feel
>a
>bit loose upon installing it this sealer will hold it in place without
>worry
>of clogging a piston cooling jet with silicone.
>
>Mike
>On Sep 15, 2011 7:23 PM, 
-- 
Sent from my Android phone with K-9 Mail. Please excuse my brevity.

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