I say use loctite 518 or the permatex equivalent.

Walt
On Sep 16, 2011 9:49 AM, "Max Dillon" <meadedil...@bellsouth.net> wrote:
> The two dimples have raised edges which deform the seal, so the edges need
to be taken down.
>
> What anerobic sealant do you recommend? Last time I put together a VW air
cooled engine, I used Permetex Aviation gasket maker (I think, was over
twenty years ago).
>
> Max
>
> Michael Canfield <slozuk...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>>Hi Max,
>>Use your choice of sealants. I would put just enough to fill the holes
>>and install the seal. It is not going to get out of there and get into
>>the
>>engine.
>>Really, looking at the picture it does not look like there is a passage
>>caused by the damage and it should not cause a leak unless it deforms
>>the
>>seal. Make sure there are no high spots and you should be good.
>>Sealer
>>will just add piece of mind.
>>On ACVW's we use aenerobic(sp?) sealant to install what is called a
>>sand
>>seal. They use a slinger type deal to keep the oil in a stock engine
>>that
>>will allow dirt and sand into the engine in harsh conditions.
>>Therefore,
>>they make specially machined crank pulleys that allow you to basically
>>glue
>>an aluminum ring that houses a traditional rubber oil seal into the end
>>of
>>the case. Aenerobic sealant is all that is used to hold it in place
>>with a
>>light press fit. Much thinner than silicone and dries hard but yet
>>flexible
>>enough to handle expansion of dissimilar metals. There are no case
>>gaskets
>>on a bug, only the sealant. So, even if the damage makes the seal feel
>>a
>>bit loose upon installing it this sealer will hold it in place without
>>worry
>>of clogging a piston cooling jet with silicone.
>>
>>Mike
>>On Sep 15, 2011 7:23 PM,
> --
> Sent from my Android phone with K-9 Mail. Please excuse my brevity.
>
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