What is the football eliminator pipe?  You don't have to separate the EGR
valve from the pipe it bolts to.  There are big fat o-rings that keep all
those intake pipes together.  You probably won't even need to replace them
unless they were butchered in the past.

But I strongly suggest not bolting anything up on reassembly until you get
all the parts back in place first.  i.e.  Don't bolt parts together until
you have the turbo oil drain pipe in place.  Its such a PITA to undo
everything just to fit something small like that.

It may help to put the individual bolts and nuts into zip log backs with a
post it note inside the bag so you can keep track of individual parts and
what goes where in case you don't get back to reassembly for a few weeks...




On Wed, Mar 14, 2012 at 8:19 PM, Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com> wrote:

> It seems to me that taking off the EGR valve and the football eliminator
> pipe would make access much easier.  Are these necessary for access, or
> just a convenience for getting the turbo out?  I am going to start on this
> tomorrow.
>
>
>
>  Oil feed line is on top, under the EGR assembly.  You will probably need
>> to also remove the 10 mm screw that holds the line to the bracket, and
>> possibly the fitting on the block as well.  Not a big deal.
>>
>> The exhaust is connected via some accordioned stainless parts with strap
>> clamps, easy to manage.
>>
>> I'm guessing your oil consumption will go way down with a new one.
>>
>> Peter
>>
>> On Mar 12, 2012, at 6:08 PM, Dieselhead wrote:
>>
>>  Is there any way to check the drain without taking the drain or the
>>> turbo off?  My guess is not.  I can't imagine the drain getting plugged
>>> when M1 is in the engine.
>>>
>>> I am inclined to  order a turbo cartridge and just change it.  If the
>>> drain is plugged, I could clean and replace and keep the cartridge on a
>>> shelf.
>>>
>>> Where does the oil feed line come in?
>>>
>>> What other parts are needed or should be replaced when replacing the
>>> turbo?
>>>
>>> Is it necessary to take off the exhaust manifold to take out the turbo?
>>>
>>> The ********* forum had a post where someone said taking off the
>>> cranckase vent hose decreased pressure in the crankcase and stopped oil
>>> leaking into the turbo.  Sounds fishy to me on a 603.
>>>
>>> Since it is now functional, I am inclined to leave it alone until I have
>>> all parts in hand.  If I tear into it, it might be weeks or months until it
>>> gets finished because of the distance involved.
>>>
>>> Parts needed:
>>>
>>> 2 or more drain tube o-rings
>>> 2 oil drain gaskets
>>> EGR block kit.  (have that at home but forgot to bring it.)
>>> Whatever it takes to insure the oil feed is reliable...(? gaskets? hose?
>>> new steel line?)
>>> Turbo cartridge kit.  (should include necessary parts to change)
>>>
>>> It is wasting probably 3-4 quarts of oil a week currently.  I need to
>>> either order parts in the morning or postpone the mess until another trip.
>>>  No trip is on the horizon until November.
>>>
>>> 1987 300SDL is the subject.
>>>
>>>  Dieselhead wrote:
>>>>
>>>>>  From no responses, I gather nobody else has had a turbo failure. Is
>>>>> that right?
>>>>>
>>>>> Is it correct that any oil in the compressor is conclusive evidence of
>>>>> seal failure?
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>> ...or a plugged drain line. If you plug the drain and feed it oil under
>>>> pressure, the oil will get into the turbine/compressor housings.
>>>>
>>>> I'm pretty sure they don't have contact seals on the shaft, but if the
>>>> bearings wore out and had radial slop the labyrinth "seals" would get
>>>> chewed too and might let oil into the compressor section.
>>>>
>>>
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>>
>>
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>
>
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