Right, like if the bushings around the transmission are bad or you decide
you want new studs, washers, or nuts for the exhaust, or one or both of the
flex pipes or clamps appears to be in poor condition.

I recall the job vividly because I had a KKK rebuilt and it wouldn't spool
up.  So I had to R/R the turbo a few times....

There really is nothing to the job, except patience and time.

Because of all the parts and the tight fit, I recommend tightening all nuts
and bolts AFTER the parts are put into place (I'm talking exhaust, oil
lines, manifold, and T/O replacement pipe)

Otherwise when you have to pull it off again... its a headache.

The most expensive single part at the time was the metal flange gasket
between the turbo and the exhaust manifold.




On Tue, Mar 13, 2012 at 3:57 PM, Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com> wrote:

> THanks for the info.  It is not the parts for the job, that require the
> second wait.  It is stuff that is not in the kit or things that you find
> when  you are "in there" that cause the second order.
>
>
>  You should not need to order parts more than once.  It is a relatively
>> straightforward job, but it does take some time.  The exhaust parts tend
>> to
>> come loose without too much trouble.  You will need (or find it easier) to
>> get under the car to disconnect the exhaust downpipe.  It may also help to
>> remove the exhaust support near the transmission to give you more room to
>> work with.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Tue, Mar 13, 2012 at 12:39 PM, Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>   The turbo flunked the test with the breather (egr) disconnected and the
>>>  oil filler cap loose.  [the cam throws quite a bit of oil with the cap
>>> off
>>>  at idle.  a whole lot at higher rpm.]  Still roughly the same amount of
>>> oil
>>>  coming up the throat of the turbo and being blown out in wisps
>>>
>>>  I decided that $300 for a cartridge, and still having to fiddle with
>>>  wastegate adjustment, and possibly running out of time vs buying a
>>> complete
>>>  rebuilt from Q and not having to check or adjust anything is worth the
>>>  price differential in this case.  Plus the turbo from Q has a 2 yr
>>>  warranty.  He says he has never had one come back.  that is good too.
>>> Had
>>>  I found the elusive $79 cartridge (gotta be chinee) I might have tried
>>> one.
>>>  but at $300, a known with time savings is good in this case.
>>>
>>>  Once again, Mr. Q saves an agent of Herr Daimler's secret service group.
>>>
>>>  Parts should be in thurs pm.  I have Thursday night and fri am to git er
>>>  done.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>  87 300SDL
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>  Oil feed line is on top, under the EGR assembly.  You will probably need
>>>
>>>>  to also remove the 10 mm screw that holds the line to the bracket, and
>>>>  possibly the fitting on the block as well.  Not a big deal.
>>>>
>>>>  The exhaust is connected via some accordioned stainless parts with
>>>> strap
>>>>  clamps, easy to manage.
>>>>
>>>>  I'm guessing your oil consumption will go way down with a new one.
>>>>
>>>>  Peter
>>>>
>>>>  On Mar 12, 2012, at 6:08 PM, Dieselhead wrote:
>>>>
>>>>  Is there any way to check the drain without taking the drain or the
>>>> turbo
>>>>
>>>>>  off?  My guess is not.  I can't imagine the drain getting plugged
>>>>> when M1
>>>>>  is in the engine.
>>>>>
>>>>>  I am inclined to  order a turbo cartridge and just change it.  If the
>>>>>  drain is plugged, I could clean and replace and keep the cartridge on
>>>>> a
>>>>>  shelf.
>>>>>
>>>>>  Where does the oil feed line come in?
>>>>>
>>>>>  What other parts are needed or should be replaced when replacing the
>>>>>  turbo?
>>>>>
>>>>>  Is it necessary to take off the exhaust manifold to take out the
>>>>> turbo?
>>>>>
>>>>>  The ********* forum had a post where someone said taking off the
>>>>>  cranckase vent hose decreased pressure in the crankcase and stopped
>>>>> oil
>>>>>  leaking into the turbo.  Sounds fishy to me on a 603.
>>>>>
>>>>>  Since it is now functional, I am inclined to leave it alone until I
>>>>> have
>>>>>  all parts in hand.  If I tear into it, it might be weeks or months
>>>>> until it
>>>>>  gets finished because of the distance involved.
>>>>>
>>>>>  Parts needed:
>>>>>
>>>>>  2 or more drain tube o-rings
>>>>>  2 oil drain gaskets
>>>>>  EGR block kit.  (have that at home but forgot to bring it.)
>>>>>  Whatever it takes to insure the oil feed is reliable...(? gaskets?
>>>>> hose?
>>>>>  new steel line?)
>>>>>  Turbo cartridge kit.  (should include necessary parts to change)
>>>>>
>>>>>  It is wasting probably 3-4 quarts of oil a week currently.  I need to
>>>>>  either order parts in the morning or postpone the mess until another
>>>>> trip.
>>>>>  No trip is on the horizon until November.
>>>>>
>>>>>  1987 300SDL is the subject.
>>>>>
>>>>>  Dieselhead wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>   From no responses, I gather nobody else has had a turbo failure. Is
>>>>>>>  that right?
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>  Is it correct that any oil in the compressor is conclusive evidence
>>>>>>> of
>>>>>>>  seal failure?
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>   ...or a plugged drain line. If you plug the drain and feed it oil
>>>>>> under
>>>>>>
>>>>>  >>>> pressure, the oil will get into the turbine/compressor housings.
>>
>>>
>>>>>>  I'm pretty sure they don't have contact seals on the shaft, but if
>>>>>> the
>>>>>>  bearings wore out and had radial slop the labyrinth "seals" would get
>>>>>>  chewed too and might let oil into the compressor section.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
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