The valve cover looks anodized but with a lot of embedded "dirt" that doesn't come off with parts cleaner. Next time I have the valve cover off I'll try yours and Jamies technique. Know what you mean about anodized trim. It was the same situation back when nearly everyone had aluminum frame windows.
Gerry

From: "Dan Penoff" <d...@penoff.com>
Anodized aluminum such as what MB used for window moulding is notoriously difficult, almost impossible, to shine up once the finish has started to oxidize. There used to be a trick where you cleaned it as well as possible then put a clear finish on it. It actually looked pretty decent, but there is no removing the oxidation once it starts. Not without damage, that is.
Dan

Sent from my iPad

On Feb 5, 2013, at 4:51 PM, "Gerry Archer" <arche...@embarqmail.com> wrote:

Thanks, Jamie, but I was looking for some sort of cleaner that would shine up the anodized aluminum as well as the less shiny parts.
Gerry

From: "Jaime Kopchinski" <jaime...@gmail.com>
Its easy, just take everything apart and clean it piece by piece :-)
I had done a valve job on this car when I bought it and went through
everything carefully.  I replaced lots of little bits, and cleaned
everything as I went along. The valve cover was done with a soft abrasive
wheel of some kind.
Jaime



On Mon, Feb 4, 2013 at 10:39 PM, Gerry Archer <arche...@embarqmail.com>wrote:

What do you use to get your engines so shiny-bright, Jamie? Others?

I used steam cleaners when they were around years ago but haven't found
anything halfway as good since then.
Gerry

From: "Jaime Kopchinski" <jaime...@gmail.com>

I had a Sanden AC compress fitted in my early W108 in place of the york.
A
local AC shop helped me spec it out. I installed an AC accumulator like the ones found on American cars, and replaced the expansion valve with an orifice tube. Charged with Freeze12. I put a large W126 condensor fan in front, triggered by a relay together with the compressor clutch. I also
put a vacuum switch in to cut the vacuum to the dashpot on the carb to
increase the idle a bit.  This was back in 2003.

It was wonderful... I had that system so cold I could get the chrome on
the
dash over the vents to frost over. And driving in traffic was no issue
thanks to the fan and higher idle speed.

Before the conversion, the york would just suck the car down in traffic.
Idle speed too low, vent and engine temps rising, etc.

Here are some photos:
http://images.jaimekop.com/**2003_07_12_250S_AC_Compressor/<http://images.jaimekop.com/2003_07_12_250S_AC_Compressor/>

Jaime



On Mon, Feb 4, 2013 at 5:26 PM, Benz Hogs <benz-n-h...@gulseth.net>
wrote:

Can you give us more details?

Luther   KB5QHU    Forest Park, IL
'98 ML320 "Max" (161,xxx mi)


On 2/4/2013 2:06 PM, Dan Penoff wrote:

Yorks are bulletproof but very inefficient. Rotaries are far more
efficient and take up less space.

I have done a couple of conversions from York to Nippondenso (if I
recall
correctly) and with the proper brackets it's a pretty simple job.

Dan

On Feb 4, 2013, at 2:55 PM, "Kaleb C. Striplin" <ka...@striplin.net>
wrote:

More efficient less drag on engine


Sent from my iPhone

On Feb 4, 2013, at 1:01 PM, dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote:

I thought the Yorks were pretty bulletproof. Why retrofit with a
rotary?


Sent from my iPhone

On Feb 4, 2013, at 1:24 PM, Curt Raymond <curtlud...@yahoo.com>
wrote:

I dunno but a rotary compressor is apparently a common retrofit for
an

old York.

-Curt
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