Years ago, I had a sharpener with a guide and grinding stone that chucked in
a drill.  It wasn't that great because the grinding stone wore to the point
it was too small in diameter to sharpen properly.  It was also slow to use
and required 110v for the drill (pre cordless days).

I now use a file and a guide like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Oregon-Chain-File-Guide-25892/dp/B00004RA76

This tool is cheaper, faster, requires no AC power, and does a great job.
Just wear work gloves and it only takes a few strokes (like 4-10, same on
each tooth) to make a chain cut like new.  I typically do all the teeth
facing one way first and then all the ones facing the other way.  The only
"trick" is keeping track of which teeth are already done so you don't miss
any or double sharpen any.

You need to buy the specific model file and guide (diameter and angle) for
your particular chain.  If you watch the pros work, the cut guy in the
bucket will lower his saw several times during the job for one of the ground
guys to sharpen.  The guys I hired just used a file (no guide) I guess they
were experienced enough they don't need a guide.


-----Original Message-----
From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Rich
Thomas
Sent: Saturday, May 11, 2013 6:49 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: chain saws

I have a sharpener I bought from Sears ages ago, a Dremel with a little 
attachment to hold a proper-sized grinding stone (whatever diameter for 
your chain, about 1.5in long) at the proper place and with markings for 
the proper angle.  You can do a chain in just a few minutes with it.  
Will make a huge difference in your cutting, and much safer too.

--R


On 5/11/13 6:35 PM, Scott Ritchey wrote:
> Also, the
> chain will get dull with use so don't hesitate to sharpen it with a file.
I
> have a guide that clips to the file to help maintain the right depth and
> angle.  It's pretty easy to keep the chain sharp and a dull chain is also
> dangerous.  A dull chain (or one without chain oil) will overheat and
that's
> when they break (serious hazard).  As you cut, the "sawdust" should come
out
> as "chunks" not dust; if not your chain is dull.


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