I would look at doing the whole job from the top side, instead of trying to lay on my back under the house, since the tile underlay boards have failed also.
Harbor Freight sells a nice [cheap is nice when it works] flush cut vibrating saw with all kinds of different blades. I would use one of those with the grout cut blade to section the tile back far enough to gain access to the underlay board. This could be done in such a way to preserve the tile and reuse it. There is a blade that will go under the tile and vibrate/cut the grout, thus releasing a row. >From that space, use the flush cut blade [you'll see what they are when you see them] to cut the underlay board out [in pieces if need be] which will then give you access to the floor joists. The flush cut blade will allow you to cut right up to the drywall of the sidewall, without damaging the drywall.. I've done this using a 6 inch drywall knife behind the flush cut blade to keep it off the drywall surface. A piece of flat sheet metal would do the same. The drywall knife just has a handy handle to move it along with the saw. With a working opening, from the top side, sectioning out the damaged joist, and sistering in fresh wood with screwed and glued plates would be "easy peasy"... Cut a new piece of underlay board to fit the surgery hole.. screw it to the "now fresh joists" and relay the tile you just salvaged... even the broken tile would re-lay with solid floor under it.. there might be a hairline crack, but I would Gorillia glue the pieces together, and lay it.. match the grout..done and dusted.. Saws are on sale often at Harbor Freight.. $40 or less.. On Sat, Jan 28, 2017 at 12:57 PM, Craig via Mercedes <mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote: > On Sat, 28 Jan 2017 14:17:10 -0500 (EST) Mitch Haley via Mercedes > <mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote: > > > > > > On January 27, 2017 at 6:27 PM "Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes" > > > <mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote: > > > > > > The joists themselves are fine except on the very end. > > > > Then I'd cut out all the rot, leaving only 100% solid wood, and run TWO > > replacement joists, one nailed and glued on each side of the rotted > > ones, with 2' of overlap, so it goes from solid original joist, to > > triple joist, to double joist at the end. If it's only rotted for a few > > feet at the end, materials for the double reinforcement shouldn't cost > > much. > > An excellent idea! > > > Craig > > _______________________________________ > http://www.okiebenz.com > > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com > > _______________________________________ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
