This is the best idea I have heard so far. Can you share a link to this HF saw you are talking about?
Sent from my iPhone > On Jan 28, 2017, at 2:24 PM, G Mann via Mercedes <mercedes@okiebenz.com> > wrote: > > I would look at doing the whole job from the top side, instead of trying to > lay on my back under the house, since the tile underlay boards have failed > also. > > Harbor Freight sells a nice [cheap is nice when it works] flush cut > vibrating saw with all kinds of different blades. I would use one of those > with the grout cut blade to section the tile back far enough to gain access > to the underlay board. This could be done in such a way to preserve the > tile and reuse it. There is a blade that will go under the tile and > vibrate/cut the grout, thus releasing a row. > > From that space, use the flush cut blade [you'll see what they are when you > see them] to cut the underlay board out [in pieces if need be] which will > then give you access to the floor joists. The flush cut blade will allow > you to cut right up to the drywall of the sidewall, without damaging the > drywall.. I've done this using a 6 inch drywall knife behind the flush cut > blade to keep it off the drywall surface. A piece of flat sheet metal would > do the same. The drywall knife just has a handy handle to move it along > with the saw. > > With a working opening, from the top side, sectioning out the damaged > joist, and sistering in fresh wood with screwed and glued plates would be > "easy peasy"... > > Cut a new piece of underlay board to fit the surgery hole.. screw it to the > "now fresh joists" and relay the tile you just salvaged... even the broken > tile would re-lay with solid floor under it.. there might be a hairline > crack, but I would Gorillia glue the pieces together, and lay it.. match > the grout..done and dusted.. > > Saws are on sale often at Harbor Freight.. $40 or less.. > > On Sat, Jan 28, 2017 at 12:57 PM, Craig via Mercedes <mercedes@okiebenz.com> > wrote: > >> On Sat, 28 Jan 2017 14:17:10 -0500 (EST) Mitch Haley via Mercedes >> <mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote: >> >>> >>>> On January 27, 2017 at 6:27 PM "Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes" >>>> <mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote: >>>> >>>> The joists themselves are fine except on the very end. >>> >>> Then I'd cut out all the rot, leaving only 100% solid wood, and run TWO >>> replacement joists, one nailed and glued on each side of the rotted >>> ones, with 2' of overlap, so it goes from solid original joist, to >>> triple joist, to double joist at the end. If it's only rotted for a few >>> feet at the end, materials for the double reinforcement shouldn't cost >>> much. >> >> An excellent idea! >> >> >> Craig >> >> _______________________________________ >> http://www.okiebenz.com >> >> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ >> >> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: >> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com >> >> > _______________________________________ > http://www.okiebenz.com > > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com > _______________________________________ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
